🏖️ Weekend in Paphos: the perfect itinerary for 48 hours
A place with such a great name was simply destined to become a luxurious Mediterranean resort. Every year more than 3 million people come here in pursuit of sun and sea. And yet, in a city where everything is inclusive and every hour is “happy,” there is still room for surprises. I propose to finally break out of the five-star Groundhog Day and look at the real Pathos (no puns here).
Kato Paphos
Like any self-respecting European town, Paphos has an Old Town, but the presence of an ancient city is a much rarer story. “Kato” or Nizhny Novgorod is one of the most important archaeological monuments of Cyprus, and what’s more, of our entire European civilization. We tell you where to go to put together your picture of the (ancient) world.
Mosaics of Paphos
The mosaics of Paphos are a seething cauldron of Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine cultures. It's hard to believe now, but this UNESCO World Heritage Site was accidentally discovered by a farmer in the 1960s. We present to your attention excavations of 3-5 century-old administrative houses under the names of Dionysius, Theseus, Aeon and Orpheus.
True, there is little left of the houses here, but the mosaics that once decorated these “pretentious” villas have been perfectly preserved, thanks in part to researchers from the University of Warsaw. Walking through this park of a great era, you feel as if you are reliving school history lessons all over again. Only now everything learned is finally falling into place and acquiring new meanings. The price of such an immersive experience is 4.50 €.
Odeon-lighthouse-Agora
It is worth noting that the ticket price includes a visit to the Odeon and Agora. Construction of the Odeon began around the 3rd century BC, but the final touches to the ancient masterpiece were already applied by the Romans.
Interestingly, the amphitheater originally had a canopy to shelter spectators from bad weather. It may seem that the glory days of this place have long passed, but this is not the case at all. Several times a year various cultural and theater festivals are held here. One of the most spectacular recent events was the light festival “Rhythms of Light”.
Looking around the majestic amphitheater, it is difficult not to notice its more modern neighbor – an active English lighthouse from 1888. You can’t climb the lighthouse, but you can walk around the territory and take beautiful photos overlooking the city.
Unfortunately, all that remains of the second neighbor is its former glory and the ruins of the sanctuary of Asclepius, the god of medicine. Previously, this square of 95×95 meters was seething and seething with life. Merchants from all over the island came here, and people on these streets heatedly discussed politics and culture. By the way, some of the columns that previously surrounded the agora can be found next door to the ruins of the Saranta Kolones castle, which the Byzantines tried to protect at all costs from Arab raids.
Royal Tombs
Perhaps my favorite place in the ancient part of Kato is the Royal Tombs – a large necropolis with underground tombs from the 4th century BC. e. Here fans of the Lara Croft franchise will be able to roam! A small educational lesson: of course, there were no kings at such a time. The name comes from the rich decoration of the burial places of the ancient aristocracy.
Promenade, Paphos Castle, municipal beach
If archeology is not really your thing, then it doesn’t matter. The Kato area also includes some modern attractions such as the promenade, the municipal beach and the medieval Paphos Castle. By the way, you can enter it for only 2.50 €. In front of the castle, right on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, classical music concerts are held – and it’s very atmospheric!
There are many cafes and restaurants scattered along the boardwalk, as well as ice cream vans. For thrill-seekers, you can immediately book jet skis, parasailing (flying with a parachute behind a boat), water skiing and seabobs (underwater scooters).
It is worth noting that the municipal beach is very clean. Among the additional amenities: parking (with the Paphos Smart Parking application you will find a place quickly and easily), toilets, changing rooms, water pumps to wash off the sand from your feet and, for a small fee, you can rent a sun lounger and parason. The swimming season is open from May to mid-October, but in mid-September the water is warmest.
Tip: The promenade establishments are often crowded, but this is not a reason to miss the opportunity to try the local cuisine. Literally a 5-minute walk from the restaurant street there is a cafe Pingouino, where you can taste both local and general European cuisine at a good price. Souvlaki was my favorite, and as for drinks, I was pleased with the wide selection of milkshakes. By the way, in the same part of the area there are such chain cafes as Starbucks and Costa Coffee.
Park and Basilica of Agia Kyriaki
Get away from the bustle, tourists and ice cream vans here, in the park near the Catholic Church of Agia Kyriaki. This little Gothic gem has graced the city since the 7th century AD. By the way, it is quite a rare case when a church in a city is not Orthodox. I especially liked the mosaics surrounding the church. And what about the cutest cats sunbathing in the sun!
Vyshgorod
Or Pano-Pafos, or maybe Ktima? All options are correct and lead to the medieval part of Paphos, which is under UNESCO protection. For fans of the flagstone Old Baltic, there will be a real break in the mold: you won’t find the massive stone towers and fortifications we are used to here.
After restoration, the city partially lost its authentic “rugged character,” but the gloss of newness does not bother you. It was unusually pleasant to wander through the narrow streets, snow-white from the sun.
This part of Paphos has many beautiful cafes, bars, tailors, boutiques and souvenir markets, and the walls of the houses are decorated with impressive street art.
One of the unusual buildings of this place is the Ottoman bathhouse of the 14th century. From the height of the city wall you can take beautiful photographs with a sea view. If Kato is more about tourists and the beach, then you will see much more of the local population here.
What to see in the area
Although driving on the left can become a stress factor for many, I still strongly recommend renting a car to see all the beauty of the Cypriot nature. You will find many good deals online, starting from about 20€ per day, but when choosing a car, remember that you will have to drive through the mountains.
Aphrodite's Rock/Petra tou Romiou/Aphrodite's Rock
An ancient Greek legend says that it was on the island of Cyprus that Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty and love, emerged from the sea. By the way, the Cypriot altar to the goddess was mentioned in the Odyssey, and modern archaeologists have found many of her figurines dating back to the period from 3000 to 2001 BC. Old Paphos was the center of Aphrodite worship for the entire Aegean world.
Cypriots are very proud of this event, so on the island you will find everything that is somehow connected with Aphrodite, including several possible places of her birth. Not far from Paphos, on the highway leading to Lima Ssol, there is one such beach with a rock. I won’t undertake to judge whether the mythical goddess was born here or not, but I will say that swimming here is a pleasure! By the way, it turned out that this place is especially popular during sunset. Exact address: MJ7G+CV7, Kouklia, Cyprus.
Blue Lagoon
A must-see for those who like to swim and enjoy a breeze on a yacht. The Blue Lagoon is a place with crystal clear water on the island, and even a sandy bottom! The warmest water is in mid-September. The water temperature reached 30C on my arrival.
There are several options for getting to the lagoon: go to Latchi harbor, and from there book a trip on a large yacht with a group of tourists, or rent a small yacht for yourself.
A cruise with a group is cheaper, and the ticket price includes a tour and small snacks. The captain will show you different bays and beaches, and will also stop at the blue lagoon for guests to swim. The only downsides to this type of trip are that it is shorter and there are more people on the boat with you. There are a dozen companies in Latchi offering this service, for example Atlantis N Paphos Cruises.
If you have a driver's license with you, you can book a yacht for your group. There is no need for special training to drive a yacht. Before the trip, you will be given detailed instructions, a map, and a walkie-talkie to communicate with rescuers and company employees. On average, prices for half a day start from 140 €, and the maximum capacity of the smallest yacht is 6 people.
There are many companies offering boat rentals in Latchi , such as Latchi Watersports Center or George's Boat Hire. An undoubted advantage of this option is that you can choose the bays and beaches where you want to spend more time. And being “at the wheel” of a boat is a whole separate experience! For those who are especially sensitive, a reminder to take your seasickness pills, and for the rest of us: pack your snacks and drinks in a cool box and let's go swimming!
Hiking in the Troodos mountains, wineries and Kykkos monastery
The highest mountains on the island are called Troodos. I warmly recommend going there to spend a day in a cedar-pine forest with inspiring landscapes!
You can plan a suitable hike for yourself on the Choose Your Cyprus website – there you will also find several options of different difficulty levels and distances. I was captivated by the views and the freshest air, for which I am ready to return again and again.
Interesting fact, it turns out there is a ski resort in the Troodos Mountains! And if you are far from sports, but want to breathe in the fresh mountain air, then I suggest visiting one of the wineries for tasting. My favorite was Lambouri Winery. For 10 euros, seven types of wine are offered, and for a snack there is bread with delicious homemade olive oil.
Regardless of your level of religiosity, the 11th-century Orthodox monastery of Kykkos is worth a visit. It is located at an altitude of about 1140 meters above sea level.
Unfortunately, the original appearance of the buildings has not been preserved due to several fires. However, here you can still light a candle for the health of loved ones or in memory of the departed, write a prayer service in Greek, English, or Ukrainian.
Only 15 people permanently live on the territory of the monastery. In addition to sacred buildings, there is a museum and a market with local kvass and wine, and friendly cats and kittens run along the roads here.
Local kitchen
If you have a car, I advise you to go to one of the nearby villages for a real Cypriot dinner in a tavern. The local cuisine is very rich, so I decided to share a very biased list of favorites: moussaka, fish meze, souvlaki, Cypriot coffee (reminiscent of a cross between espresso and Turkish coffee) and, of course, Greek salad.
I tried one of the most delicious moussakas of my life at the Peraklis family tavern in the village of Nata. If you have already decided to have dinner in the village, I advise you to call the place you have chosen and reserve a table.
On weekdays, business in villages is weak, so establishments close early if there are no reserved tables. On Sundays, everything is crowded, because Cypriots come to their native villages and go to taverns with their families for lunch.