🇵🇹 48 hours in Lisbon: the ideal route and secrets of the city

I like to start getting to know a new country from its capital. But it so happened that I got to Lisbon for the first time only in the third month of my stay in Portugal. But then, during a year of living on the edge of Europe, “Lisboa,” as the locals say, managed to visit many times. And so I decided to create a convenient walking route for you, which will not only capture all the main attractions, but also reveal the soul of the city.

Of course, two days for Lisbon is nothing. But during this time you will fall in love with the terracotta roofs, yellow trams, and the constant festive atmosphere – and you will definitely want to return to Lisboa more than once. 

Day 1

A. I recommend starting your acquaintance with Lisbon from the observation deck in the Eduardo VII Park (Miradouro Parque Eduardo VII). From here you have a breathtaking view of the garden itself and the Tagus River. And a giant flag of Portugal will fly above your head – symbolically and solemnly.

B. After a walk through the park, you will find yourself at the Marquês de Pombal Square (Rotunda do Marquês de Pombal). In the center of the ring is a monument to José Pombal, who was an important Portuguese statesman and reformer. But the key thing for Lisbon is different – he was engaged in the restoration of the city after a powerful earthquake that happened in 1755 and turned this place into ruins.

C. After paying your respects to Jose Pombal, you can continue your journey through Avenida da Liberdade. This avenue is similar to the Champs Elysees in Paris. Wide sidewalks with green areas are such a luxury for Portugal! The houses along the boulevard also remind us of France. It is customary to shop on this street, and you can also have brunch in some chic restaurant by local standards.

D. When you reach Praça Dom Pedro IV, be sure to look at the Rossio train station building (Estação de Caminhos de Ferro do Rossio). It was built at the end of the 19th century in an elegant Portuguese neo-Manueline style. It was once the country's main railway junction with a grandiose engineering project – a 2.5 km long tunnel in the limestone rock under the urban development. The station is still open and trains to Sintra depart from here.

E. The most famous pedestrian area in Lisbon, Rua Augusta, begins from Pedro IV Square. There are many souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants serving local cuisine. Houses from the 18th and 19th centuries also house shops of popular brands. Pay attention to the sidewalk – there are Portuguese cobblestones under your feet.

F. I think you can't miss the Santa Justa elevator (Elevador de Santa Justa). Since the beginning of the 20th century, the neo-Gothic 45-meter lift has been transporting residents and visitors to the upper part of the city – the Bairro Alto district. Do you want to take a ride in a vintage cabin and look at the historical center from above? A return ticket will cost 5.50 euros.

Take the elevator and visit the Carmelite Monastery. The Church of Carmo (Convento do Carmo) was built in the 14th century on a hillside. During the earthquake that I mentioned earlier, the temple was badly damaged. And it has not yet been fully restored. For me, this gives the cathedral a special atmosphere – you can admire the carved arches against the backdrop of the open sky. But you will have to pay 5 euros for entry.

G. Did you admire the sky? Go back down and continue window shopping on Rue Augusta. At some point you will come across the Arc de Triomphe (Arco da Rua Augusta). The city gate symbolizes the power of Lisbon's rebirth after that same earthquake. By the way, at the top of the Arch there is an observation deck, a visit to which will cost you about 3 euros.

H. Passing under the city gates, you will come to the Plaza of Commerce (Praça do Comércio). It is also called the Palace (Terreiro do Paço). But you won't see a royal residence here. The reason is still the same – earthquake. Now it is a large parade ground, topped with a monument to King José I. It was he who gave the reins of power to the Marquis de Pombal, and he himself switched to carnal pleasures. The buildings bordering the square on three sides formerly housed trading offices. That’s why the place is now called Commerce Square.

At this point you have walked about 3.5 km. But I don’t think we were very tired, since we were constantly going down. The second half of the route will be shorter – about 1.5 km. But it’s more difficult, since you have to climb the winding streets of another historical district of Lisbon – Alfama.

I. Have you looked at the embankment? Now turn towards the Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa). It is also called the Basilica of Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa – this is the oldest church in Lisbon, built in the 12th century. It was made in the Romanesque direction. A century later, a courtyard was added to the temple, already in the Gothic style. The Patriarchal Cathedral repeatedly suffered from earthquakes, so it could not reach us in its original form. Entrance to the basilica is paid – an adult ticket is 5 euros.

Next to the Cathedral is the Church of St. Anthony (Igreja de Santo António). It is named after the patron saint of Lisbon.

J. Taking a leisurely stroll through authentic Portuguese streets, we climb the highest hill in Lisbon – to the Castle of St. George (Castelo de São Jorge). The first fortifications appeared here even BC. The castle reached its heyday in the 13th-16th centuries, when it served as the residence of the Portuguese kings. By the way, within its walls King Manuel the First received the navigator Vasco da Gama, who had arrived from a trip to India.

Over time, only ruins remained from the castelo area, but now the castle looks like a real medieval fortress, from the walls of which there is a beautiful view of the city and the Tagus River. To walk around the castle grounds you need to pay 15 euros.

And the end of the day is a ride on a yellow tram.

The last step I suggest you take is to go down to Praça Martim Moniz Square. It is approximately 1 km away. The famous Lisbon tram number 28 (Tram 28) begins its route there. He will take you through the narrow streets of popular tourist areas. The ticket price is 3 euros.

Day 2

I really hope that your legs don’t hurt too much in the morning, because it’s impossible to ignore a few more important places in Lisbon. I propose to start this day from the Belem area.

A. It is convenient to start the program of the second day with a tour of the buildings of the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT) – this is a complex of two buildings. The first is a converted power station, which is a striking example of early 20th century industrial architecture. The second building is modern. It was built in 2016 and looks cosmic – you can conquer this wave without surfing. If you want to explore the exhibition halls, entrance to both buildings costs 9 euros.

From the roof of the museum, and from the embankment nearby, you have an excellent view of the 25th of April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril). Yes, yes, it looks like the Golden Gate in San Francisco. This is because both bridges were built by the same company, and both are located in seismic zones. As surprising as it may sound, the overpass is the safest place in Lisbon during an earthquake. The April 25 Bridge opened in 1966, and the lower level with the railway appeared later, in 1999.

B. Now turn your head in the other direction – in front of you is the Monument to the Discoverers (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). Its height is 52 meters. As you get closer, you can see 33 figures of important historical figures from the Age of Discovery. On the sidewalk next to the monument is a map of the world, with all the former Portuguese colonies marked.

C. Walk a little further along the embankment and you will find yourself at the Torre de Belém. This beautiful building of the early 16th century served not only as a gateway to the city, but also as a well-armed bastion that protected Lisbon from attacks from the Tagus River. The Belem Tower is 35 meters high, and the thickness of its walls is 3.5 meters. The entrance ticket costs 9 euros.

D. The next pearl on the route is the Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos). Its construction continued throughout the 16th century. King Manuel the First decided to build this temple, so the building was built in the Manueline style he invented, like the Belem Tower, by the way. The monastery seems to be woven from lace – a stunning sight.

Inside the temple you will see maritime technology discovered by Portuguese ships during expeditions during the Age of Navigation. The temple houses the tomb of Vasco da Gama, King Manuel I and his family, as well as the graves of some other prominent personalities of that period. To get inside, it is better to buy a ticket online in advance, otherwise you will have to wait in a huge line. The cost of visiting the monastery is 10 euros.

E. Near Jeronimos there is a pastry shop where they make the same world-famous paste – Pastéis de Belém. A lot of people gather outside the cafe to try the delicacy prepared according to the original recipe. But don't be alarmed, the line usually moves pretty quickly.

Not taking into account the trampling at key points, by this point you have already walked a little more than 3 km. The next location is 2.5 km away. To save energy, I suggest getting there by tram 15E or by taxi.

F. After immersing ourselves in the era of the Great Geographical Discoveries, we will be transported to the now popular art spaces. LxFactory is located under the Red Bridge. The territory of the former weaving factory is now a party place with unusual shops, creative cafes and bars. I want to take photos of the decor of this space without stopping. Exhibitions and entertainment events often take place here.

You can hang out at LxFactory until late at night. But if you want to see another party part of Lisbon, call a taxi. The drive is not very far – about 5 km, but reduce the travel time to the Bairro Alto area.

A. Upon arrival, visit the small garden of Príncipe Real (Jardim do Príncipe Real). It is located next to the gay quarter, so in 2017 a memorial to victims of homophobia was erected in the park. The rest of the sculptures in the park are dedicated to writers and poets of the 19th century, because it was during that period that the garden itself was created. According to its founders, this place should convey the romantic spirit of England, and the palaces around the green area should develop this theme. The main pride of the square is the cedar tree with a diameter of more than 20 meters.

B. Now let's head to the center of Lisbon's nightlife. To do this you need to turn onto Pink Street (Rua da Rosa). Here, in houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, there are many bars, cafes, restaurants, clubs, as well as boutiques, shops and cute shops. In the evening the street buzzes like a hive of bees.

C. I propose to temporarily emerge from Rua da Rosa to look at one of the oldest Jesuit churches in the whole world – the Church of St. Roque (Igreja de São Roque). At the beginning of the 16th century, the plague came to Lisbon. In the place where the temple now stands, there was a cemetery for those who died during the epidemic. Saint Roch is considered the protector of those suffering from the plague. First, a chapel was built in his honor, and in the second half of the 16th century, a church was also erected. Behind the external modesty of the temple façade lies a rich interior.

D. We return to the party area and move to another noisy street in the evening hours. She is also called Pink – this time because of the color of the sidewalk. On the city map the street is marked as Nova do Carvalho. This place used to be the local “Red Light District”. Here sailors and criminals could lose their temper and find someone to have a good time with.

Getting to know a new country is impossible without getting to know its cuisine. I told you about what every tourist in Portugal should try here. And also in a separate article I drew attention to the specifics of the work of Portuguese institutions.

A few more important life hacks

1 If you visit each place that I described in this article, you will spend about 65 euros per person. To save money, buy a special card – Lisboa Card. It gives access to 38 city attractions, as well as unlimited free travel on buses, metro, city trains, trams and elevators. A two-day card for an adult will cost 37 euros.

2 The cost of renting housing in Lisbon has skyrocketed – the market is very overheated. If you are a fan of early booking, there is a chance that you will find a decent option and stay within 100 euros per night for two. Closer to the date, the price will be at least twice as high, and there will be as many options as a cat on a wall. If you want to save money, choose housing along the city train line. For example, in the city of Estoril you can find apartments for 70 euros. The train will take 30-40 minutes to the center from there.

3 The international airport in Lisbon is located within the city. Getting from here to the center is convenient by metro or bus, and a taxi will be inexpensive. By the way, Uber and Bolt operate in Lisbon.