🏞️ Sevan: the pearl of Armenia
In some countries, no, no, and you will hear a joke that they have their own sea – the Big Lake. This reservoir, so dubbed with a bit of sarcasm, attracts residents of the capital with its geographical and economic accessibility.
Located just a few kilometers from the city, Big Lake has become a popular holiday destination for city residents. During the summer months, its shores are filled with holidaymakers who come here to swim, sunbathe or simply enjoy nature. Along the coast there are numerous recreation centers, cafes and restaurants offering a variety of entertainment and delicious food.
However, despite its popularity, the Big Lake still cannot completely replace the real sea. Its size and infrastructure are limited, and the water does not always meet high standards of purity. However, for many residents of the capital this is the best alternative to long and expensive trips to seaside resorts.
In addition, Big Lake plays an important role in the ecology of the region. It is home to many species of fish and birds, and its shores are covered with green forests and meadows. In recent years, local authorities have been making efforts to preserve and improve the ecological condition of the reservoir so that it can continue to delight residents and guests of the city with its beauty and opportunities for outdoor recreation.
Armenians also believe that they have their own internal sea. And they are not being ironic about this at all. Sevan, the largest lake in the Caucasus, is another pride of Armenia, this time natural. Let's go there for beautiful views.
How to get there
Lake Sevan is located in the center of Armenia. Therefore, it is convenient to get there from almost anywhere in Armenia. The closest is from Dilijan – 30 kilometers. But we will consider what options for traveling to Sevan are from the capital, Yerevan.
Public transport
The cheapest option to get to Sevan is by bus or route ka. Convenient, but not very reliable. Because for drivers, the most important thing is the filling of transport, and not the schedule.
But if you still decide to use a budget option, then go to the Yerevan Northern Bus Station (bus No. 46 goes there). Then there are two options. First: find transport to the city of Sevan, for example, minibus No. 317. Keep in mind that the city of Sevan and Lake Sevan are not the same. It is six kilometers from the city to the lake. You will either have to walk them or pay extra for a taxi.
Second option: buses to Dilijan. They follow through Lake Sevan. Ask the driver to drop you off closer to Sevan. From the stop to the lake you will need to walk about a kilometer. The ticket price in both cases is 1000 drams ($2.5). Savings come at the cost of lack of comfort. Buses and minibuses were seen back in the 90s. And an hour and a half of a summer trip will not give you the most pleasant sensations.
Taxi
A traditionally convenient and fairly budget option is a taxi from Yerevan. You will cover the 65 kilometers separating the capital and Lake Sevan in an hour. But you will pay 10 times more, 10,000 drams ($25). For those traveling in a group, the amount will be unnoticeable.
However, you should be vigilant with taxi drivers. Tourists are the main source of income for them and they will not miss the opportunity to take a double tariff. Therefore, either agree on the exact amount right away, or use electronic services, for example, Yandex Taxi.
Organized tours
But for me, the most convenient option for group travel seems to be an organized tour. The price is comparable to the cost of a taxi. They will draw up a route for you, show you several locations at once, pick you up and deliver you from/to your hotel.
There are many companies offering trips to Sevan and surrounding attractions. For example, Explore Armenia. The cost of a tour without a guide costs $100, with a guide it costs $50 more. The price is per car.
Do you want a tour, but are you looking for ways to save money? Then head to Republic Square in Yerevan. Right on the spot you will be offered to go on a trip to any point in Armenia. The cost can usually be negotiated 30% cheaper than at a travel agency.
Legends of Lake Sevan
Of course, many legends have been formed about such a remarkable object for Armenia as Lake Sevan. According to one of them, an unlucky Armenian girl forgot to cover the spring with a lid after drawing water from it. The spring that broke free began to flood the surrounding dwellings, causing many problems for the residents. They began to complain: “Let the one who left the spring open turn to stone.” The wish did not take long to come true – the forgetful girl was petrified. The stone seems to sometimes appear from the surface of the lake. It was nicknamed “Harsnakar” (“Stone of the daughter-in-law”). However, today Harsnakar is one of the most famous hotels in Sevan where you can stay.
The dark water of the lake gave rise to many legends explaining this phenomenon. According to one of them, a terrible dragon lived at the bottom of the lake, annoying both earthly and heavenly inhabitants. When the dragon turned 1000 years old, the angels raised it closer to the sun and the rays of the sun burned the monster. Ash began to fall from the sky, and fog enveloped the earth for a long time. It is easy to guess that the reason for the appearance of this legend was a volcanic eruption, which the ancient Armenians found to their horror.
The name of the lake also has a “volcanic” nature. According to popular belief, “Sevan” is translated as “black monastery.” Thus indicating that the lake was named after the most famous man-made landmark, the Sevavank Monastery. But now philologists are inclined to believe that everything is much more prosaic: in the ancient Urartian language, “Sevan” is simply a “lake”.
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Lake Sevan. Look…
The title of “the largest lake in the Caucasus” is embodied by the very spectacular views of Sevan. It is truly endless. And when you find yourself several kilometers from the shore during a boat trip, it seems that you have gone to the open sea.
By the way, be sure to book a walk around the lake. It costs only 500-1000 drams ($1.5 – 2.5) and will give you an unforgettable experience. Several piers with boats are located right at the exit from the Sevavank monastery, so you definitely won’t miss it.
… and try
It will also be difficult to pass by cafes and restaurants that attract tourists with the inhabitants of the lake on their menu. I recommend paying attention to two establishments – Gagari Mot and GreenBay Sevan. It would be a sin to go into them and order a meat shish kebab rather than a fish dish. After all, the lake is rich in rare species of fauna. And you can try some of them only in Armenia.
The most popular items on the menu of Sevan restaurants are whitefish dishes. This fish of the salmon family has recently returned to gastrotourism booklets. Only in 2020, after a 15-year ban, the Armenian authorities finally allowed industrial fishing of this fish again. Take this opportunity and be sure to taste it. When will you be able to tell that you ate fish listed in the International Red Book?
Sevan trout or ishkhan has an even more refined taste. Some call it the most delicious freshwater fish in the Caucasus. The name itself obliges the fish to be loved by gourmets: ishkhan is translated from Armenian as “prince,” which emphasizes the special attitude towards it. Local legends tell that fishermen caught trout almost a meter in size. But your plate will most likely end up with its smaller brother.
Just as in some countries there are many dishes from certain products, local chefs make a thousand dishes from whitefish, trout and lake crayfish. Fried, baked, grilled, in the form of kebabs, in salads, meatballs, dumplings – you can try all this with the risk of not getting up from the table from overeating.
Fish and crayfish caught in the clear waters of mountain lakes have a delicate taste and are the basis for many traditional dishes. Local residents have been perfecting recipes for centuries, passing them on from generation to generation. As a result, each dish has its own unique taste and aroma, reflecting the richness of the local culinary tradition.
One of the most popular dishes is grilled whitefish. The fish is pre-marinated in spices and then fried over an open fire, which gives it a special aroma and taste. No less popular are crayfish, which are cooked in large cauldrons with spices and served with various sauces.
For gourmets, fish dumplings and meatballs will be a real discovery. They are made from fresh fish mixed with potatoes, onions and herbs. The result is a hearty and tasty dish that goes well with local drinks.
When visiting this region, you should definitely try as many local fish and crayfish dishes as possible. This will allow you not only to enjoy delicious food, but also to immerse yourself deeper into the local culture and traditions. However, be careful – the abundance of tastes and aromas may make you sit at the table longer than you planned!
Sevavank
But you need to rise. And not just climb, but also climb to the best observation deck of the area. 200 steps under the sweltering Armenian sun lead to the legendary Sevavank monastery. This complex is already in its second millennium. But its black appearance is not due to disrepair. And a unique building material, volcanic tuff.
Sevavank was founded by Princess Mariam in 874. Although monks settled in this place before. In those days, the Sevan Peninsula was an island in the middle of the lake. Nature itself protected him from uninvited guests. And she gave peace to the monks suffering from solitude. However, dreams of moving away from the bustle of the world did not always come true. In the 10th century, the monks had to fight for their monastery with the Arabs. The followers of the cult turned out to be militant, the Arabs were driven out and this was declared the will of Providence.
Unfortunately, there are no more monks left in Sevavank. The last of them left in 1930. But two ancient churches remained: Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) from 305 and Surb Arakelots (Holy Apostles) from 874. These churches are modest both outside and inside. Modesty and humility before heaven are the main features of Armenian religious buildings. Admire not the decoration, but the unimaginable antiquity of human civilization in this place.
Hayravank (Mardakhavnyats)
After examining Sevavank, we are faced with a dilemma. Head further along the lake shore to the next ancient monastery? Or turn in the opposite direction – to Dilijan? I hope that your time and energy will be enough for both directions. First, let's go to Hayravank, 30 kilometers from Sevavank. The considerable distance once again makes you wonder whether it’s worth saving money by using public transport.
Hayravank is another lakeside monastery. It was founded in the same way as its more famous brother, in the 9th century. Take a closer look: there are practically no windows in the monastery building. The interior spaces are illuminated only by narrow strips of light. This is a typical feature of Armenian religious architecture.
Another interesting legend is associated with the monastery. The second name of the complex, “Mardakhavnyats”, means “dove man”. In 1381, during the invasion of Armenia by the cruel conquerors Tamerlane, thousands of civilians took refuge in the church. There was no need to expect mercy from Tamerlane's soldiers. To avoid death at their hands, the priest Ovan offered a prayer. Heaven heard the priest and turned people into doves, which were able to fly to freedom. The legend does not say whether those rescued remained in bird form or returned to human form.
Ride to Dilijan
Dilijan, located 30 kilometers from Sevan, deserves to become the hero of a separate guide. This city and its surroundings are one of the main tourist attractions in Armenia. If you were heading exclusively to Sevan and have limited time, I recommend at least taking a ride along the Sevan-Dilijan road winding in the hills. Unforgettable and, what is especially interesting, contrasting views await you.
The narrow winding road, where cars have difficulty warming up, in itself contributes to the release of adrenaline. And if you have the courage to break away from the driver’s maneuvers and look out the window, you will completely fall in love with Armenia. Steppe, distant contours of mountains with snowy peaks, a few moments in a tunnel and… the landscape is unrecognizable. Now in front of you are steep slopes, full of greenery. We are in the Dilijan National Nature Reserve. But that's a completely different story.
Lake Sevan is as endless as the list of attractions in Armenia. And it is just as multifaceted. Here you can find beach holidays, antique sites, unforgettable nature, and gastrotourism. Without visiting here, you will not know the country fully.