🇱🇧 Lebanon: a journey to a land of contrasts
Disney's Agrabah, mountains of Turkish delight, endless oriental bazaars and sultry sandy beaches – this is how we imagine Middle Eastern resorts with a touch of Egypt. Broken storefronts, blocked roads, rocks and sticks shaking locals – this is how I really saw the Middle Eastern state of Lebanon in 2019.
I wasn’t deceived about one thing for sure, Lebanon was sultry. But not so much from the November sun, but from the bonfires of the rioting Lebanese blazing in the main square. The light extreme adventure that I had dreamed about for so long while traveling has finally turned from Scheherazade’s fairy tale into reality. Today's story will be about him.
A short historical and political educational program on Lebanon
Lebanon is a former French colony. Therefore, French traditions, architecture and language remained here. Once upon a time, the French and their descendants constituted the elite of society. But when a society does not know how to agree (not to be confused with “suppress”) on key issues of cohabitation, it has the misfortune of developing into civil wars. This happened with the small Middle Eastern Riviera.
More recently, in 1975-1990, the country was torn apart by a civil war between Muslim Arabs and Christian descendants of colonialists. The conflict claimed the lives of between 100 and 150 thousand people. Dilapidated buildings, bullet marks, military equipment on the streets and even the current political system of Lebanon will hardly allow us to forget about this.
After the end of the war, the post of president was legally assigned to Maronite Christians, the post of prime minister to Sunni Muslims, and the post of head of the Supreme Court to Shiite Muslims. And in parliament there is a strict 50/50 quota between Christians and Muslims. Thus, Lebanon turned into a unique political construct.
Why go there?
I'm sure this is your first question after the section above. But we have a portal about conscious travel, right? Who needs sad lying on the sunbeds of Egypt and Turkey and languid gazes at the Eiffel Tower, when there is such an exotic country as Lebanon, which allows tourists in without visas?
In pre-pandemic times, there was even a direct flight from Belavia to the capital of Lebanon, Beirut: 4 hours – and you are in the most unusual place where the national air carrier could deliver. Now you need to take Turkish Airlines from Vilnius or Moscow, which will fly to Beirut with a transfer in Istanbul.
You can stay in the country without a visa for up to 30 days, which is more than enough to enjoy its hospitality. But be careful: if you have a stamp from Israeli border guards in your passport, then with a high degree of probability you will not be allowed into Lebanon. And your adventures will be no less vivid, but already connected with deportation.
Lebanon is not spoiled by tourists; it is periodically shaken by internal turmoil. And there is no sophisticated infrastructure for travelers. However, the country is ideal for those who are ready to test the waters by leaving their comfort zone. If you get a taste for it and decide to test it with both feet, neighboring Syria will help you.
I will say right away that Lebanon does not always rebel. I was just lucky – and I sincerely think so. Of course, the fact that I was not traveling alone, but in a group of youth for an international training, also contributed to my peace of mind. And it was organized by representatives of the ruling party.
What added piquancy to the situation was the fact that large rallies were held against this very party in Lebanon. When, on the third day of our visit, a shredder was actively working at the party office, destroying party documents, we were imbued with a sense of the epoch-making nature of what was happening.
Why do these descriptions exclude architectural structures, traditional cuisine and nightlife? Because Lebanon is for those who are bored with traditional travel. For those who are well-fed and polished, Europe no longer evokes any feelings. And it is here on this long-suffering land that you can feel the value of human life.
Buildings demolished by a shell and never rebuilt look at tourists with a silent reproach. They are literally shouting about what happens when religion and nationality become higher than humanism. And the walking soldiers with weapons at the ready remind us: this can happen again. Seeing this is like seeing permanent scars on the human body.
And now about earthly things
If after my horror stories you haven’t yet stopped reading the article in a panic, then I’m moving it into a more traditional direction. What to see? Little Lebanon will surprise you!
I’ll say right away that local public transport is a phenomenon similar to a neutron star. Only great professionals can predict its appearance and cycles of existence. So I recommend moving around Beirut either on foot or by taxi, the prices for which are quite liberal. Even if you are for austerity, it is unlikely that you will be able to pass a local taxi.
The fact is that there are so many of them in Lebanon and they are so persistent that they almost kidnap pedestrians from the sidewalks in an effort to take them somewhere and make money. A particular shock for me was the case when they tried to lure a passenger from a taxi stopped at a traffic light into another car. Tough competition in Lebanese… And, by the way, you will definitely remember two sounds from this trip:
- Calling the muezzin to prayer five times a day. I bet this, and not Nescafe, is how you start your morning. After all, the first prayer occurs on average at 5 am.
- The deafening roar of horns – who do you think? Well, of course, a taxi! It is in this way that they extremely persistently attract attention to themselves. No pedestrian will be left behind.
Do not rush to scold insolent taxi drivers. If you can easily walk around Beirut on foot (the main thing is not to live in the local favelas), then you need to travel to other cities by transport. And here a dilemma awaits you.
Buses and minibuses depart from Beirut bus station to different parts of the country. But they do this only according to a schedule known to the drivers. The board says one thing, but in fact the passengers wait until their (un)fortunate comrades have accumulated in a number that is more or less beneficial to the driver. The same goes for the return ticket. Tracking down and catching a bus is not an easy mission.
A taxi can save you, but you should arrange it with your hotel administration. Every respectable hotel manager in this country has well-fed drivers ready to be at your full service for the day. Usually for a round sum of $100. If you have a company of 3-4 people, then this option is optimal. This is what I and my friends used most often.
Baalbek
Lebanon is a mosaic of different eras, cultures and traditions. Baalbek, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an ancient piece of the puzzle. Although its formation dates back to the Egyptian period, the historical pearl of the city is precisely the ancient ensemble that arose in the Roman period.
If you believe the researchers, then in some ways it surpasses even the Cheops pyramid. Namely, in the weight of the stone monoliths from which it was erected. Some of them reach a weight of 800-1000 tons. And the largest one weighs 1650 tons. True, its suffering local builders were never able to make it to the construction site. Having seen what they had done, they simply threw the stone “at the place of manufacture.”
Stones are definitely good. But the main thing is the end results of their use. These are temples of varying degrees of preservation on the territory of ancient Baalbek. The largest is the Temple of Jupiter. Slightly smaller are the temples of Bacchus and Venus. The layers of history make themselves felt; next to antiquity you will find the remains of a medieval fortress and mosque.
Ancient ensemble of Baalbek. Temple of Jupiter inside, photo by the author
Speaking of Bacchus. The taxi driver brought us to this acquaintance. We are talking about a local tavern, quiet and hidden in a cozy corner not far from the ancient ruins. Lebanese cuisine will not surprise you with anything: shawarma and kebab. Typical East. But be sure to try the local vodka, Arak. This is an anise-flavored strong drink with an average strength of 60%. It is diluted with water, which instantly gives the arak a cloudy moonshine hue. It tastes like chewing licorice.
Byblos (Jabel)
One of the oldest cities of mankind. The cradle of Phoenician civilization, the largest port and shipyard of its time. The best times, however, are behind Byblos. Now only three thousand people live there, which does not prevent it from being very cozy and attractive. Comfort is achieved not least by the fact that descendants of the French, close to European civilization, live there. So Byblos will appear as a small island of Mediterranean Europe in the exotic sea of Arab culture.
There are many worthy places in Byblos. And a well-preserved crusader fortress of the 12th century, an ancient amphitheater and necropolis of local rulers of the 19th century BC.
A set that allows you to call this city Lebanon in miniature. But most importantly, Byblos has the sea and open accessible beaches! What a surprise, you say. There really is plenty of sea in Lebanon. Beaches, too. But the Lebanese attitude towards these objects is, let’s say, sacred or something.
Locals do not swim in the sea and, accordingly, they do not equip the infrastructure for such pleasures. The sea is considered dirty here. For example , in the coastal cities of Lebanon I saw a real surreal experience. Five meters from the sea on the beach, locals dig out artificial pools en masse, fill them with water and flounder there. The land-based soul of the tourist was indignant and demanded the expropriation of the sea treasure, invaluable to the Lebanese.
As for the cleanliness of the sea, the issue is ambiguous. In Beirut it is really unsuitable for swimming. But the Bible is what you need. A pleasant sandy empty beach, clear water, and the absence of judgmental glances due to the fact that the city is Christian. For a beach holiday, in general, come here.
Tripoli
A shocking city where the incongruous combines. The Crusader fortress is supported by several armored personnel carriers. Military men with M16s are walking right along the ramparts.
Nice restored houses, like Moscow majors at a rural disco, are wedged into broken abandoned shacks that no one cares about. But the most powerful impression I received was from the mountain of garbage in the city center. At first we thought it was a clothing market. But no, the Lebanese dump mountains of unnecessary clothes on the banks of the river.
After this, it’s somehow difficult to talk about the sights of Tripoli. Because you definitely won’t get more vivid emotions. Of course, there are a lot of objects worthy of attention, although the city is young by Lebanese standards, it is only 3.5 thousand years old.
First of all, it is a Crusader fortress. Iconic not only because of its excellent preservation, protected by armored personnel carriers. But also due to the fact that Tripoli was one of the last strongholds of the crusaders. Conquered in 1289 by the Mamluks, it became a symbol of unfulfilled hopes for the liberation of the Holy Sepulcher.
Juniya-Harisa-Jeita
Lebanon is rich in more than just architecture and garbage. There are also real natural wonders of the world here. For many, the Middle East seems like an endless desert with miserable wandering camels. Then you will certainly be amazed by the riot of colors of the underground caves of Jeita.
The caves are a tunnel exit from an underground river – the main source of the Dog River (yes, such beauty and such a strange name). When visiting this reserve of stalactites and stalagmites, your journey will begin with a boat ride along the river on the lower tier. These few minutes will definitely make you fall in love with Lebanon.
Well, then you’ll have to walk along the upper tier of the caves with your own feet. Enjoy the intoxicating unusual air, touch thousand-year-old minerals and try to secretly take photographs of this miracle. It is prohibited to take photographs in the caves, so I do not encourage you to do so.
The cost of visiting, like many things in Lebanon, is very reasonable – 10 dollars. And this will be one of the most successful investments you will ever make in your life.
Not far from the natural miracle there is also a man-made one. Statue of the Virgin Mary of Lebanon, known to the world as Charisa. The 20-meter symbol of Christian Lebanon was made in 1907 and is an observation deck with a church inside.
I especially recommend evening to visit the statue. Blown by the sea breeze and inspired by the holiness of the place, the evening lights of Jounieh will be especially memorable. If you like souvenirs, then this is the place to buy them. It would be appropriate to remember that one of the symbols of the country is the Lebanese cedar, from which the Phoenicians made their legendary ships. “Advertised material ” is very expensive, but it will truly convey the spirit and flavor of the country in souvenirs made from it.
Once on Charis Hill, there is a reason to visit another religious attraction – St. Paul's Cathedral. The temple belongs to the Melkite Greek Catholic Church, schismatics who combine Western and Eastern rites of worship.
The interior of the church is the same. It looks like a Roman church, but it also looks like Byzantine decoration. By the way, Jounieh was visited several times by the Popes. In 1997, this was done by John Paul II, and in 2012 by Benedict XVI. Such interest in a town of 100 thousand is not accidental. Jounieh is the capital of Lebanese Christians.
Beirut
And of course, Beirut. It’s worth mentioning, because you certainly can’t pass it by default. All planes to Lebanon arrive here. Beirut is also an old city and full of architectural gems. First of all, religious. There are churches and mosques here. Among the first are the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of St. George, the Church of St. Elias and the Church of Saint-Maron, with its thin towers reminiscent of the minarets of a mosque.
Having embarked on the path of Islam, do not forget to visit the Mohammed Al-Amin Mosque (also called the Hariri Mosque). This iconic establishment is very young, opened only 15 years ago. But almost immediately it gained serious significance both in the eyes of locals and in the eyes of tourists. It is located next to Martyrs' Square and the Presidential Palace. In both places, the Lebanese periodically gather to protest.
To see the azure arabesque of the dome and massive bronze chandeliers, as well as touch deep antiquity, go to the Al-Omari Mosque. It is considered one of the oldest city buildings. Once upon a time there was a Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter on this site, then a Byzantine church was built in its place.
But still, the capital of Lebanon is not about architecture. There are completely different things for the must do list here.
- Take a walk along the embankment and decide for yourself whether the Lebanese are right that they do not want to swim in the Mediterranean Sea.
- Smoke a hookah, which is considered a national symbol in the country, along with the Lebanese cedar. And it is an inseparable companion of many locals, to the point that I spotted several Lebanese teenagers riding a motorcycle and busily puffing on a hookah as they went.
- Don’t forget to go to local pastry shops, where the concept of “oriental sweets” will take on a completely different meaning.
- Well, allow yourself a glass of local wine in the evening. To drive your social media followers to despair, I recommend trying blue Lebanese wine.
Of course, the beauty of small but proud Lebanon is not limited to this modest list. There are other beautiful natural locations. For example, the Horsh Arz el-Rab and Chouf nature reserves. History buffs should add another ancient Phoenician city to their list – Sidon (Saidou).
And those who love history, seasoned with extreme sports, should definitely visit Tire (Sir), located in the south of the country. In the very south, which is so close to the Israel we are more familiar with, but where the radical organization Hezbollah, recognized as terrorist in many Western countries, makes itself felt from time to time.
This is what Lebanon is like. Choleric and melancholic, charming and frightening, but always charming.