Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome: what to see and how to get inside

Many tourists skip Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Its facade on the Esquiline Hill looks more modest than that of St. Peter's Basilica. But inside you will find 5th-century mosaics, a gilded ceiling, and a relic of Christ's manger. The church is one of Rome's four patriarchal basilicas and the only one that has preserved its early Christian structure (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

Getting there is easy. From Termini station you can walk or take the metro one stop. Entry to the basilica is free; you only pay for the museum, the loggia, and the archaeological excavations. Below you will find opening hours, tickets, and directions to the entrance.

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What to see in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore

💡 In short:

• Entry to the basilica is free. Only the museum, the loggia, and the archaeological excavations are paid.
• Seeing the church takes about an hour, and with the museum and loggia you will spend longer.
• The highlights inside: 5th-century mosaics, gilded coffers, and the icon Salus Populi Romani.
• Check opening hours and ticket prices on the basilica's official website.

The basilica is called papal because the Pope himself oversees it. At the same time, the church operates as an ordinary parish church and is open to everyone. You do not need a ticket to enter from the square. Only the loggia, the museum, and the excavations are booked, and not always. Free entry makes the basilica a convenient stop on a route through central Rome.

History: snow in August 352

© Diego Delso · CC BY-SAPhoto: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0), Wikimedia Commons

In 352, according to tradition, snow fell on the Esquiline Hill in the middle of the summer heat. A dream of Bishop Liberius pointed to this exact spot, and in 358 the first church was built here (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

Eighty years later, Pope Sixtus III completely rebuilt it. The work lasted from 432 to 440, and the church then received its current name. Maggiore means "greater": it is the largest church in Rome dedicated to the Mother of God.

Hence the church's second name, Santa Maria della Neve, or "Our Lady of the Snow." Every year on August 5 from 9:00 PM to midnight this miracle is reenacted: white flower petals fall onto the square (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). If you want to see the event without the crowd, come by 9:00 PM.

The 75-meter bell tower was built in 1376, and it is the tallest bell tower in Rome. Every evening at 9:00 PM the Campana della Sperduta, the "bell of the lost," rings. The facade with its portico and loggia was completed in 1743 to a design by Ferdinando Fuga to protect the early mosaics from rain (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

The Holy Doors in the portico are opened once every quarter century. The bronze door was created by sculptor Luigi Enzo Mattei in 2000, and it was last opened on January 1 and closed on December 25, 2025 (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). A pilgrim can pass through them only in a jubilee year. For you this means: in ordinary times the door remains closed.

Interior and main relics

The interior has hardly changed since early Christian times. The triumphal arch and the nave walls are covered with 5th-century mosaics, commissioned by Sixtus III himself. Look up: the nave ceiling is made of gilded coffers and resembles golden honeycomb.

© Alvesgaspar · CC BY-SAPhoto: Alvesgaspar, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0), Wikimedia Commons

The gold for the coffered ceiling, according to tradition, was a gift from Queen Isabella of Spain, and it arrived in Rome with the first shipment of goods from America. The nave is supported by marble columns of ancient origin, some of them taken from old Roman buildings. In the 13th century, Jacopo Torriti decorated the apse with the mosaic "The Triumph of Mary." The floor is laid in the Cosmatesque technique: multicolored marble is arranged in a complex geometric pattern, and the technique takes its name from the Cosmati family of craftsmen.

The main relic is hidden beneath the altar. The Bethlehem Crypt holds a casket with fragments of Christ's manger. One side is made of crystal, so the relic is visible from a distance throughout the year. Full access is granted only on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, when you can approach the manger up close.

Pope Francis called this basilica his favorite church and is buried here (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

The church contains the tomb of the architect Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini, the designer of the colonnade of St. Peter's Basilica. Several popes are also buried here, including Paul V and Clement VIII. Note the baldachin over the altar: beneath it lie the relics of the Apostle Matthias.

Chapels: Sistine, Paoline, and Sforza

The basilica has several chapels, and each one looks different. The Sistine Chapel was built by Domenico Fontana for Pope Sixtus V in the late 16th century; it stands to the right of the entrance (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

© NateBergin · CC BYPhoto: NateBergin, CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0), Wikimedia Commons

In plan, the chapel follows the shape of a Latin cross. The dome is divided into sections with frescoes of saints, and above the altar angels hold the tabernacle. Do not confuse it with the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican: these are different halls, and there is no line here.

The Paoline Chapel, also called the Borghese Chapel, was designed by Flaminio Ponzio. Marble, bronze, and gilding make it the richest hall in the church. It houses the Byzantine icon of the Mother of God Salus Populi Romani, "Salvation of the Roman People." According to tradition, it was painted by Luke the Evangelist.

The Sforza Chapel was begun to a design by Michelangelo shortly before his death in 1564. The work was completed by his pupils, Tiberio Calcagni and Giacomo della Porta (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). The chapel is modest in its decoration, and this sets it apart from its two neighbors.

Squares around the basilica

In front of the church, on Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, stands the Column of Peace with a statue of the Virgin Mary. The column was moved here from the ruins of the Basilica of Maxentius, and the fountain next to it was added later (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). On the sides of the square you will see palaces from the 17th and 18th centuries.

© Roma1314 · CC BY-SAPhoto: Roma1314, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0), Wikimedia Commons

The main facade faces the square, while the apse opens onto Piazza dell'Esquilino. There stands an obelisk from the Mausoleum of Augustus, which once served as a landmark for pilgrims. The basilica can be walked around entirely, and that is a rare opportunity in Rome.

Hours and tickets (as of 09/2026)

The basilica is open daily, and admission to the church is free. Hours are sometimes changed for services, so check the schedule on the papal basilica's website. The Liberiano Museum, the loggia with the Hall of Popes and Bernini's staircase, and the archaeological excavations are visited by ticket.

Tickets for the museum, the loggia, and the excavations are bought on site or online; booking in advance is not required (as of Renato Prosciutto, 09/2026). The loggia is accessible only with a guide on a set schedule.

How to get to the basilica

The address is simple: Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, next to Termini station. From Termini to the entrance is about 700 m on the map, an 8-10 minute walk. You can also ride one stop on metro line A to Vittorio Emanuele station.

Trams 5 and 14 stop right at the square; buses 16, 71, 75, 714, and 717 also come here (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). Basilica phone: +39 06 69886800.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore on the map

The map clearly shows how close the basilica is to Termini station. Open it in Google Maps if you want to build a route from your hotel.

⁉️🤔 Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to enter the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore?

The basilica itself is free to enter, no admission fee is required. The museum, the loggia with the Hall of Popes and Bernini's staircase, and the archaeological excavations are paid separately (as of 09/2026, official basilica website). Tickets for these areas are sold on site or online, and booking in advance is not necessary.

Is the basilica open every day?

Yes, the church is open daily, with no closing day. Opening hours are sometimes adjusted due to morning and evening services, so check the official website in the morning. Early morning is best for the mosaics: at 7:00 you will find the church almost empty.

Can you see the relic of Christ's manger?

The relic is kept in the Bethlehem Crypt beneath the altar, behind a crystal panel. During most of the year you can only see the reliquary from a distance. Full access to the manger is granted on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, when visitors can approach the relic up close.

How is Santa Maria Maggiore different from other basilicas in Rome?

The church is one of the city's four patriarchal basilicas and the only one that has preserved its early Christian structure (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto). Here you will find 5th-century mosaics, not just Baroque decoration. At the same time, the basilica remains a functioning church, not a museum.

How to get to the basilica from Termini station?

From Termini to the entrance is about 700 m on the map, an 8-10 minute walk. You can also ride one stop on metro line A to Vittorio Emanuele station. Trams 5 and 14 stop right at the square (as of 09/2026, Renato Prosciutto).

In short: what is worth booking

Santa Maria Maggiore does not require a ticket, but a couple of paid options make the visit more complete. If you are short on time: go into the nave for the 5th-century mosaics and to the Pauline Chapel to see the icon of Salus Populi Romani. If you have half a day: add the loggia with its view over Rome and the museum. If you are traveling with a guide: take a tour where the history of the mosaics is explained on site. You can book a Rome tour that includes the basilica on GetYourGuide.