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India: a guide for planning it yourself

India: a guide for planning it yourself

On a single trip you will see only a small part of India. The beaches of Goa, the canals of Kerala, the palaces of Rajasthan, colonial Kolkata and the hill stations of the Himalayas lie far apart and live in different climates. So the first decision here is not the hotel but the region and the season: everything else depends on them. This page lays the country out for planning it yourself: which regions are known for what, where to stay, how to get around, when to go and what your total is made of. Each section is short and leads on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: between the dry season and the monsoon, between the north and the south of the same state, they differ so much that a single figure would be misleading.

What to see: the big picture

A first trip for culture usually rests on the Golden Triangle: the Red Fort in Delhi, the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Hawa Mahal palace in Jaipur. In Delhi, people add the Lotus Temple. It belongs to the Baha'i community, and entry is open to people of any faith.

Ancient temples of Khajuraho with tall stone towers
Ancient temples of Khajuraho with tall stone towers. Photo: Hiroki Ogawa, CC BY

Further from the usual circuit are the temples of Khajuraho, built by the Chandela dynasty. About twenty structures survive, divided into three groups, and the advice is to start with the western one: the largest stand there. In Varanasi people come for the ghats, the wide steps down to the Ganges, in Amritsar for the Golden Temple, and in Kolkata for the colonial center around the Maidan park, with the Victoria Memorial and the Indian Museum, the oldest in the country.

On the coast the history is different. Old Goa was the capital of Portuguese India: the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral stand side by side, and Fort Aguada survives on the shore. Keep two things in mind. Some working temples are closed to foreigners, and a sign at the entrance says so. And Kolkata's museums are closed on Mondays, so choose your sightseeing day in advance.

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Regions and cities: where to go

Goa remains the country's main beach destination, and the state is split into two halves. The north, from Candolim and Calangute to Anjuna and Arambol, means guesthouses, markets and parties. The south, from Majorda to Agonda and Palolem, means large hotels, quiet and higher prices. You choose your half before booking, because both the airport and the pace of the vacation depend on it.

City Palace of Udaipur above Lake Pichola
City Palace of Udaipur above Lake Pichola

Kerala is chosen for its canals, greenery and Ayurveda, and in this state's Western Ghats lies Munnar, set among tea plantations. In the north, people escape the heat of the plains in the hill stations: colonial Shimla, Manali, Mussoorie not far from Delhi, tea-growing Darjeeling with its view of Kangchenjunga, and McLeod Ganj, the center of the Tibetan community.

Rajasthan means Jaipur, Udaipur on its lakes, Jaisalmer, and Pushkar with its fair. Kolkata in the east suits those interested in colonial history and museums. For most travelers Delhi becomes the city of arrival and departure: it is a convenient place to start a route and to return to before flying out.

Regions of India: what people go for and what to keep in mind
RegionWhat people go forWhat to keep in mind
North GoaGuesthouses, markets, partiesMopa airport is closer
South GoaLarge hotels and quietHigher prices, Dabolim airport is closer
KeralaCanals, greenery, Ayurveda, the tea plantations of MunnarThe monsoon arrives here first
Hill stationsCool air when the plains are hotBest in spring and fall, many roads are closed in winter
RajasthanThe palaces of Jaipur, the lakes of Udaipur, the fair in PushkarCrowded in January, lodging is booked early
KolkataColonial history and museumsMuseums are closed on Mondays
DelhiStart and end of the routeFrom November, smog settles in for two to three months

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Hotels: what decides the choice

In Goa, the star rating matters less than the half of the state and the distance to the water. In the south, five-star resorts with enclosed grounds predominate, and some of them have their own stretch of shore. In the north there are more guesthouses, bungalows and simple hotels. Check the distance to the beach on the map, not in the description.

Resort pool with buildings and palm trees in Goa
Resort pool with buildings and palm trees in Goa. Photo: Biswajit Majumdar, CC BY-SA

Before booking, find out what is included in the rate and what is charged separately. In winter the nights in the north of the country are cold, and only expensive hotels have heating. In summer air conditioning matters, and not every place has it. For peak dates, meaning January in Rajasthan, Diwali and the New Year period in Goa, lodging is taken well in advance, and the good options go first.

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Tours, tickets and day trips

Some experiences in India cannot be arranged on your own. The last stretch to Dudhsagar Falls in Goa is covered by jeep through a wildlife sanctuary, and seats are booked ahead. In Varanasi the ghats are best seen from a boat on the Ganges, in Udaipur from the water of Lake Pichola. Between Agra and Jaipur lies Ranthambore National Park with its tiger safaris.

Dudhsagar Falls on the rock, people swimming below
Dudhsagar Falls on the rock, people swimming below. Photo: Vinayaraj, CC BY-SA

In the mountains, the historic narrow-gauge railways to Shimla and Darjeeling, which locals call the Toy Train, have become an attraction of their own, as has sunrise on Tiger Hill. We recommend getting your Taj Mahal ticket in advance.

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Food: spice, water and the cuisine of Goa

Indian cuisine is built on rice, curry, vegetables, fish and seafood, and the flavor comes from spices and sauces. The local “a little spicy” is often already very spicy for a European, so ask about the heat before ordering and ask for a milder version. A vegetarian has an easier time in India than a meat lover. A thali lets you try many things at once: a set of small bowls on a large tray.

Pieces of bebinca with a scoop of ice cream on a plate
Pieces of bebinca with a scoop of ice cream on a plate. Photo: Warren Noronha, CC BY

Goa stands apart. Its cuisine grew out of Indian, Portuguese and coastal traditions, it is milder than North Indian food, pork is cooked here and alcohol is served freely. Grilled seafood, the dessert bebinca and lassi are worth trying.

Two rules concern your health. Drink only sealed bottled water, use it to rinse your mouth after brushing your teeth, and skip the ice in drinks. Choose places with a steady flow of customers, where locals themselves eat: the food there is fresher.

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Flights, trains and getting from the airport

Many flights serve the big cities of Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru. Goa has two airports: Dabolim is closer to the southern beaches, Mopa to the northern ones. Pick the beach first, then the airport, and only then look at flights. A direct flight saves time, a connection through Mumbai or Delhi saves money, and there is also an overnight train from Mumbai to Goa on the Konkan Railway.

Airport building with a wavy roof and road
Airport building with a wavy roof and road. Photo: iMahesh, CC BY-SA

Within the country, train tickets are bought in advance: some seats are held under a tourist quota, but that sells out too. In the big cities the metro helps, since it does not sit in traffic. You hail a rickshaw on the street or order one through an app, and you agree on the price before getting in.

Traffic in India drives on the left, and the rules of the road are not strictly followed. A newcomer is better off not driving: hire a car with a driver. In January, dense fog around Delhi and Agra disrupts flight and train schedules, and on major holidays transport is packed, so do not plan tight connections.

Getting around: what suits which situation
SituationHow to travelWhat to keep in mind
Southern beaches of GoaFlight to Dabolim airportPick the beach first, then the airport
Northern beaches of GoaFlight to Mopa airportA connection through Mumbai or Delhi is cheaper than a direct flight
From Mumbai to GoaOvernight train on the Konkan RailwayBuy tickets in advance
Between citiesTrainTourist quota seats sell out too
In a big cityMetroDoes not sit in traffic
A short rideRickshaw from the street or through an appAgree on the price before getting in
Trips by carCar with a driverTraffic drives on the left, a newcomer is better off not driving

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When to go: dry season, monsoon and festivals

For most regions the best time runs from October through March: it is dry and the heat eases, but there are more tourists. The beach season coincides with the dry winter, roughly from November through March. January is the coolest month and almost rainless, yet it is the peak: Rajasthan and Goa are crowded, while in the Himalayas there is snow and many roads are closed. Spring and fall are best for the hill stations.

Decorated camel with cart at the Pushkar Fair
Decorated camel with cart at the Pushkar Fair. Photo: V.K wikimats, CC BY-SA

The monsoon lasts from June through September. The rains reach Kerala first, cover almost the whole country by mid-July, and the most water falls in July. At that time it is relatively dry in Rajasthan, Ladakh, Delhi, Bengaluru and Hyderabad. The rains bring shorter lines and lower prices, but in Goa lifeguards often close the water to swimmers, and landslides occur in the mountains. In Delhi, smog settles in from November for two to three months.

Festivals shift every year because they follow the lunar calendar. Diwali, the festival of lights, falls in October or November, Holi at the start of spring, the Pushkar fair in November. For these days, lodging and transport are booked several months ahead.

Seasons in India: weather and what they suit
PeriodWeather and crowdsWhat it suits
October to MarchDry, the heat eases, more touristsMost regions of the country
November to MarchDry winter on the coastBeach vacations
JanuaryCoolest month, almost rainless, peak seasonRajasthan and Goa, though they are crowded; snow in the Himalayas
Spring and fallBetween the winter snow in the Himalayas and the monsoon landslidesHill stations
June to SeptemberMonsoon, the most rain in JulyRajasthan, Ladakh and Delhi, where it is relatively dry; not for the beach

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

Three things move the total in India. The season: the dry winter months and the days of Diwali keep prices high, while in the monsoon flights and hotels usually get cheaper. The region and class of lodging: South Goa with its large hotels costs noticeably more than the north with its guesthouses. The journey: a direct flight costs more than a route with a connection, and internal transfers add both money and days.

There are local specifics too. In museums, a ticket for a foreigner costs more than for an Indian citizen. In bazaars and rickshaws the price quoted to a tourist is usually already inflated, and bargaining is normal here. Markets take cash, while cards are accepted in hotels and large stores. That is why you find a calculator here instead of a figure: it separates lodging, food, transport, tickets and a reserve, and shows which item pushes your total up.

Calculate a travel budget for India

Routes: the first trip and how to extend it

The classic base for a first trip is a week in the Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. A rough schedule looks like this: two days for Delhi, two for Agra with the Taj Mahal and the fort, the rest for Jaipur. From there the route is extended by interest, adding roughly two days for each destination.

View of the Taj Mahal in haze from a balcony
View of the Taj Mahal in haze from a balcony

The most common additions: a safari in Ranthambore, the ancient rituals of Varanasi or Amritsar, the palaces of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur, Mumbai, and at the end a few days on the beach in Goa. Kolkata needs two full days, and up to four for lovers of colonial history.

Leave the first day after the flight for acclimatization: the body does not adjust to heat and humidity right away. And do not try to fit the north, the south and the mountains into one vacation. Distances here are large, and every transfer takes up a good part of the day.

How many days to allow for each part of the route
Part of the routeHow many daysWhat fits in
After the flightFirst dayAcclimatization to heat and humidity
DelhiTwo daysThe Red Fort and the Lotus Temple
AgraTwo daysThe Taj Mahal and the fort
JaipurRest of the weekThe Hawa Mahal palace
Each additional destinationAbout two daysRanthambore, Varanasi, Amritsar, Udaipur or the beach in Goa
KolkataTwo full days, up to fourThe colonial center around the Maidan park and the museums

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: visa, connectivity, customs

A tourist visa is required for India. It is issued online through the official e-Visa portal, with no visit to a consulate, and we recommend applying before you buy your plane tickets. Check the terms for your passport on the same portal. A separate form, the e-Arrival card, is filled in 72 hours before arrival, and it does not replace the visa. Taking cash rupees in and out of the country is capped by a limit, so spend any leftover local currency before you fly out.

No vaccinations are mandatory for entry, but check the list of recommended ones with a doctor about a month before the trip. Private clinics in India are good, yet the bill is presented right away, so take out travel insurance before you leave and read what exactly it covers. Check roaming terms with your carrier before the trip. An eSIM set up while you are still at home gives you internet from the first minute, a local SIM card is sold at the airport, and hotel Wi-Fi is often slow.

The customs are simple, but people notice them. The greeting is the word “namaste” with palms pressed together at the chest. Food and money are handed over with the right hand, because the left is considered unclean. Before a temple, shoes come off and shoulders and knees are covered. People and rituals are not photographed without permission.

Build a packing list for the India trip

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Frequently asked questions about a trip to India