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Spain: the guide for planning it yourself

Spain: the guide for planning it yourself

Spain is bigger and more varied than it looks in a beach brochure. The coastline runs for almost eight thousand kilometers, the country includes two archipelagos, the Balearics in the Mediterranean and the Canaries in the Atlantic, and the green Atlantic north has little in common with sun-baked Andalusia. Anyone who tries to fit all of that into one vacation spends most of the time on the road. This page sorts the country for your own planning: what each city and coast is good for, where to stay, how to get around, when to go and what to work out your costs with. Every section stays short and leads on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: train tickets are sold at dynamic fares, hotels by the sea go up in summer, and a fixed figure would soon be out of date.

Cities and sights: the overall picture

Two cities usually carry a first trip. Barcelona means Gaudí's architecture, with the Sagrada Família and Park Güell, the Gothic Quarter, La Rambla and the hills of Montjuïc and Tibidabo. Madrid means the Royal Palace, the Plaza Mayor and three major museums that stand almost side by side: the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and the Reina Sofía art center.

Sagrada Familia towers and construction cranes against a blue sky
Sagrada Familia towers and construction cranes against a blue sky. Photo: Nan Palmero from San Antonio, TX, USA, CC BY

The country's second layer is Andalusia: Seville with its cathedral, the Giralda tower and the Alcázar, Córdoba with the Mezquita, its Mosque-Cathedral, and Granada with the Alhambra on the hill above the city. In Valencia the medieval Old Town sits next to the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences, and in Bilbao the old quarter of Casco Viejo is complemented by the Guggenheim Museum.

Beyond the cities lies what people make a separate trip for. The Teide volcano on Tenerife is the highest point in Spain. The Garajonay laurel forest on the island of La Gomera is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Altamira cave in Cantabria is closed to visitors, and a replica of its main chamber is shown at the museum in Santillana del Mar.

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Coasts, islands and where to base yourself

The mainland coasts differ more than the map suggests. The Costa Brava in the north of Catalonia is cliffs, pine-covered slopes and small coves. The Costa Dorada south of Barcelona has a gentle entry into the sea and shallow water, which is why it is considered the most child-friendly coast in the country; Salou and the PortAventura World park are here too. The Costa Blanca holds the record for Blue Flag beaches. The Costa del Sol in the province of Málaga has the most hotels in the top category, but the water there is cooler than on the neighboring Mediterranean coasts.

Picturesque Costa Brava cove with boats and cliffs
Picturesque Costa Brava cove with boats and cliffs

The islands fall into two archipelagos. The Balearics in the Mediterranean offer beaches and a short flight: Mallorca is the liveliest, Menorca is quieter and has been declared a biosphere reserve, and Ibiza is known for its clubs, although the north of the island has peaceful coves. The Canaries in the Atlantic mean winter warmth and volcanic landscapes.

In the cities the neighborhood changes the trip more than the hotel category does. In Barcelona, Eixample or El Born is recommended for a first visit, and Barceloneta lies by the sea. In Andalusia, Seville or Málaga makes a convenient base: from either it is easy to get out to the neighboring cities.

Spain's coasts and islands: which suits whom
Coast or islandWhat sets it apartWhat to bear in mind
Costa BravaCliffs, pine-covered slopes and small coves in the north of CataloniaPines give shade near the water, so this coast is recommended for July and August
Costa DoradaA gentle entry into the sea and shallow water: the most child-friendly coast in the countrySalou and the PortAventura World park are here
Costa BlancaThe record for Blue Flag beachesIn late September and the first half of October the sea is still warm and the beaches are less crowded
Costa del SolThe most hotels in the top categoryThe water is cooler than on the neighboring Mediterranean coasts
MallorcaThe liveliest of the Balearic islandsThe season lasts roughly from May to October
MenorcaQuieter than Mallorca and declared a biosphere reserveAlong with Mallorca it is recommended most often for families with children: the beaches shelve gently
IbizaKnown for its clubsThe north of the island has peaceful coves
CanariesWinter warmth and volcanic landscapesThey welcome visitors all year round; a vacation here usually costs more than on the mainland

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Hotels: all-inclusive and what makes up the price

All-inclusive is less common in Spain than in Turkey or Egypt and is concentrated mainly on the islands: Tenerife, Mallorca, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote. Most hotels sell breakfast only or breakfast and dinner, and on that rate drinks at dinner usually cost extra. What is included differs from hotel to hotel, so check exactly what the package covers before you book.

Hotel with pools on the oceanfront, aerial view
Hotel with pools on the oceanfront, aerial view. Photo: Wouter Hagens, CC BY-SA

The price is driven by the island and the season. The Canaries take guests all year round, Mallorca, Ibiza and the Costa Brava operate roughly from May to October, and rates are highest in July and August. In Barcelona the tourist tax is paid on the spot and is not included in the room price.

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Tours and timed tickets

Spain's main sights admit visitors by time slot, and this is the first thing to sort out once you have bought your flights. Tickets for the Sagrada Família are sold online only, there are no ticket desks on site, and the popular slots go several weeks ahead. At the Alhambra the daily quota is limited, the entry time for the Nasrid Palaces is printed on the ticket, and admission is strictly at that time. Tickets for the Mezquita in Córdoba, the Alcázar in Seville and the Prado Museum in Madrid are also bought in advance.

Nasrid Palaces and Alhambra towers among cypresses
Nasrid Palaces and Alhambra towers among cypresses. Photo: Martin Furtschegger, CC BY

The big cities are good starting points for day trips. From Madrid there are direct trains to Toledo and Segovia, both of them on the UNESCO list. From Barcelona you take the train to Girona and to Figueres with the Dalí Theatre-Museum, and Montserrat is reached by train and rack railway. On Tenerife you can climb to the crater of Teide only with a free permit, which is arranged in advance.

Tickets in Spain: where you need an entry time
SightTicket and entryWhat to bear in mind
Sagrada Família, BarcelonaTickets online only, no ticket desks on siteThe popular slots go several weeks ahead; the church is open daily
Park Güell, BarcelonaThe monumental zone is open by ticket and time slotAllow about an hour for the monumental zone
Alhambra, GranadaThe entry time for the Nasrid Palaces is printed on the ticket and admission is strictly at that timeThe daily quota is limited; the complex has no closing day
Mezquita, CórdobaBuy your ticket in advanceOn weekday mornings entry is free, though not for groups
Alcázar, SevilleBuy a timed ticket in advanceThe visit takes half a day; it is quietest early in the morning
Prado Museum, MadridBuy a timed ticket in advanceThere are free-entry hours in the evenings
Crater of Teide, TenerifeYou need a free permit, which is arranged in advanceWithout a permit you stay at the upper cable car station

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Food: tapas, pintxos and a late dinner

Spaniards have dinner late and go out after sunset, so restaurant kitchens also open toward the evening. The cheapest proper lunch is the menú del día, a set menu of the day with a first course, a second course and a drink. Tapas at the bar work out cheaper than at a table on a tourist street.

Tapas with ham and croquettes on a bar counter
Tapas with ham and croquettes on a bar counter. Photo: Elemaki, CC BY

The cooking here is regional. In Madrid people try cocido, a thick chickpea stew with meat, the squid sandwich bocadillo de calamares, and churros with hot chocolate. In the Basque Country you are served pintxos, snacks on a piece of bread held with a cocktail stick: in the bars of Bilbao you take them from the counter yourself, and at the end your sticks are counted. The village of El Palmar, by the Albufera lake near Valencia, is regarded as the birthplace of paella.

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Trains, car rental and getting in from the airport

Between the big cities the high-speed train is the most convenient way to travel. The AVE links Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia and Seville. The AVE train takes about two and a half hours between Barcelona and Madrid from center to center, whereas flying, with the trips to and from the airports, stretches to around four hours. Fares are dynamic: the cheapest tickets are on the low-cost Ouigo and Avlo trains, but they take longer, almost three hours or more.

AVE high-speed train speeding through autumn fields
AVE high-speed train speeding through autumn fields. Photo: André Marques, CC BY

Car rental makes sense where the railway ends: the white towns of Andalusia, Extremadura and La Rioja, the Pyrenees, Galicia and Asturias, Tenerife. To rent a car you need a passport or an EU identity card, a driver's license held for at least a year and a bank card in the driver's name; for licenses issued outside the EU, an international driving permit is requested.

From El Prat airport to the center of Barcelona you can take the Aerobús to Plaça de Catalunya, the R2 Nord train or metro line L9 Sud, which needs a separate airport ticket. From Madrid's Barajas airport an express bus runs to the center around the clock, and there is also the metro with an airport supplement and taxis at a fixed fare. A transfer booked in advance is more convenient at night, with children and with a lot of luggage.

Getting around Spain: how to travel
RouteHow to travelWhat to bear in mind
Between Barcelona and MadridAVE high-speed trainAbout two and a half hours from center to center; the Ouigo and Avlo trains are cheaper but take longer
From El Prat airport to the center of BarcelonaAerobús to Plaça de Catalunya, the R2 Nord train or metro line L9 SudThe Aerobús takes about 35 minutes and leaves every 5-10 minutes; the metro needs a separate airport ticket
From Barajas airport to the center of MadridExpress bus, metro or taxi at a fixed fareThe express bus runs around the clock, less often at night; the metro carries an airport supplement
From Madrid to Toledo and SegoviaDirect train: to Toledo from Atocha station, to Segovia from Chamartín stationAbout 30 minutes to Toledo
From Barcelona to Girona or FigueresTrainAbout an hour's journey, and tickets are easy to buy online
From Barcelona to MontserratTrain and rack railwayThe bus there runs only once a day
White towns of Andalusia, the Pyrenees, Galicia and AsturiasRental carYou need a driver's license held for at least a year and a bank card in the driver's name

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Best time to go and weather

The beach season on the mainland and in the Balearics lasts roughly from May to October, while in the north of the country swimming starts closer to June. The calmest months for the sea are June and September: the water is warm and there are fewer people. July and August are the peak of heat, prices and crowds; for those months the advice is to pick the coasts north of Barcelona, where pines give shade near the water.

Flower ofrenda with a figure of the Virgin Mary in a Valencia square
Flower ofrenda with a figure of the Virgin Mary in a Valencia square. Photo: Simon Burchell, CC BY-SA

For cities the reckoning is different. Madrid, Seville, Córdoba and Granada are at their most pleasant in spring and fall, while in summer the inland cities heat up and are best walked in the morning or evening. In the Canaries the air is warm in winter too, so that is the place to look for a beach in February.

For the big festivals accommodation is booked a long way ahead. In March Valencia holds Las Fallas, at the end of April Seville gathers for the Feria de Abril, in August La Tomatina takes place in Buñol, and in October Zaragoza celebrates the Fiestas del Pilar.

Spain by season: where and when
Time of yearWhere it is goodWhat to bear in mind
May and OctoberThe start and end of the beach season on the mainland and in the BalearicsIn the north of the country swimming starts closer to June
June and SeptemberThe sea on the mainland and in the Balearics: the water is warm and there are fewer peopleThe calmest months of the beach season
July and AugustThe coasts north of Barcelona, where pines give shade near the waterThe peak of heat, prices and crowds; the inland cities heat up
Spring and fallMadrid, Seville, Córdoba and GranadaThe most pleasant time for walking around the cities
WinterThe Canaries: the air is warm in winter tooThat is the place to look for a beach in February
Days of the big festivalsLas Fallas in Valencia in March, the Feria de Abril in Seville at the end of April, the Fiestas del Pilar in Zaragoza in OctoberAccommodation for the festivals is booked a long way ahead

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

The total is set by the season, the region and the type of accommodation. In July and August hotels by the sea go up, and in the fall prices on the mainland come down from their peak. The Canaries are usually more expensive than the mainland: a vacation on Tenerife traditionally costs more than one on the mainland coasts.

The savings show most in three things. First: free hours at the museums. The Prado admits visitors without a ticket in the evenings, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum on Mondays, and entry to the Mezquita in Córdoba is free early in the morning on weekdays. Second: lunch from the menu of the day instead of dinner à la carte. Third: a train ticket bought in advance.

You work out your own total in the calculator. It separates accommodation, food, local transport, admission tickets, getting there and a reserve, so you can see which item is pushing the total up.

Calculate a travel budget for Spain

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Routes: two cities, Andalusia and a road trip

A first trip usually consists of two cities and the high-speed train between them. Allow three days for Barcelona: the old town with the Gothic Quarter, Gaudí's houses, Montjuïc and Tibidabo. Two or three are enough for Madrid: the Royal Palace and the old town, the museums on the Paseo del Prado, the Retiro park. From Madrid it is easy to add a day in Toledo or Segovia.

Panorama of Girona with the Onyar River and the cathedral
Panorama of Girona with the Onyar River and the cathedral. Photo: Patronat de Turisme Costa Brava Pirineu de Girona, CC BY-SA

Andalusia makes a loop of its own: Seville, Córdoba, Granada and Málaga. A six-day route takes in all four if you give Seville two days and the others one each. Buy tickets for the Alhambra and the Mezquita as soon as you have fixed your dates.

Catalonia works well by car: Barcelona, the Costa Brava, medieval Girona and the Pyrenees in six days. For those who travel on foot there is the Camino de Santiago: routes from one hundred to eight hundred kilometers long, and the certificate is awarded for walking just the last hundred kilometers as well.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: safety, documents, staying connected

Spain's big cities are calm, and being out late is normal here, but pickpockets work wherever there are a lot of people: on La Rambla in Barcelona, in the metro, in squares and in lines. Keep your bag in front of you and do not leave your phone unattended. On the beach, look at the flags: green allows swimming, yellow calls for caution, red forbids going into the water.

Pedestrian street La Rambla in Barcelona with plane trees and a crowd
Pedestrian street La Rambla in Barcelona with plane trees and a crowd. Photo: tiger rus, CC BY

Citizens of the EU and Switzerland do not need a visa; an identity card or passport is enough. Travellers from countries without a visa-free arrangement need a Schengen visa, which is arranged in advance. During the siesta hour some shops are closed, and Monday is the closing day at most museums in Madrid.

Check the roaming terms for Spain with your own operator before you travel. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and contact with the hotel. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read what exactly it covers.

Build a packing list for a trip to Spain

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Common questions about a trip to Spain