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Germany: the guide for planning it yourself

Germany: the guide for planning it yourself

Germany does not come down to one city. Most first itineraries rest on Berlin, Munich with Bavaria, and Hamburg, but between them lie castles from the Baltic to the Alps, the Black Forest, the rock formations of Saxon Switzerland, the wine valleys of the Main and the Moselle, and two seas in the north. Anyone who tries to cover all of it in a week spends the trip in transit. This page sorts the country for your own planning: where to go, where to stay, how to get around, when to set off and what to calculate your costs with. Every section stays short and leads on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: a train ticket and a hotel night in Germany depend on the purchase date and the holiday calendar, so a fixed number would mislead you.

Castles, nature and the main sights

Castles are scattered from the Baltic to Bavaria, and you cannot get around them all in one trip. The best known, Neuschwanstein, stands on a rock in the south of Bavaria: you can only go inside on a guided tour and with a ticket for a specific time. Eltz Castle hides in a wooded valley not far from the Moselle and is closed in winter. Schwerin Castle sits on an island in a lake in the north.

Neuschwanstein Castle on a rock in the forest
Neuschwanstein Castle on a rock in the forest. Photo: Thomas Wolf , www.foto-tw.de, CC BY-SA

The landscapes vary just as much. The Black Forest lies in the southwest: the Feldberg mountain, the lakes Titisee and Schluchsee, and the Triberg waterfall, which is considered the highest in the country. Saxon Switzerland begins half an hour from Dresden, and the viewing platforms of the Bastei Bridge above the Elbe are open all year and free of charge. A narrow gauge steam train climbs from Wernigerode to the Brocken, the highest point of the Harz. On the North Sea coast, low tide uncovers the floor of the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Two rules save the most time. Take no more than one big castle a day: the line, the tour and the journey add up to half a day each time. And check the opening days: in Munich, Stuttgart, Nuremberg and Berlin many museums are closed on Mondays.

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Cities and regions: where to go

A first trip usually rests on three hubs. Berlin is the capital, with a dense center. Munich, the third largest city after Berlin and Hamburg, serves as the main gateway to Bavaria: this is where people set off for the Alps and the castles of Ludwig II. Hamburg is a port and a city on the water, divided by the Elbe, the Alster and its canals.

Cologne Cathedral and Hohenzollern Bridge over the Rhine
Cologne Cathedral and Hohenzollern Bridge over the Rhine. Photo: Thomas Wolf , www.foto-tw.de, CC BY-SA

Next come the cities that are easy to see on foot. In Cologne almost everything important stands within a couple of kilometers of the cathedral. Dresden fits into a compact triangle on the bank of the Elbe, and two days are the usual allowance for it. Frankfurt am Main, Nuremberg, Leipzig, Stuttgart and Düsseldorf also have compact centers, while Baden-Baden grew up around thermal springs that rise right in the middle of town.

Choose regions by what you are going for. Franconia stretches along the Main from Würzburg to Bamberg. In the Black Forest people base themselves in the valleys and go up to the lakes and summits for the day. In the north, quiet is found on the East Frisian Islands, where Spiekeroog and Langeoog live without cars, and on Rügen and Usedom in the Baltic.

German cities: how they differ and what to keep in mind
CityWhat kind of cityWhat to keep in mind
BerlinThe capital, with a dense centerThe advice is to stay inside the S-Bahn ring; many museums are closed on Mondays
MunichThe third largest city and the main gateway to BavariaThis is where people set off for the Alps and the castles of Ludwig II; hotels get more expensive during Oktoberfest
HamburgA port and a city on the water, divided by the Elbe, the Alster and its canalsA direct train from Berlin takes under two hours
CologneAlmost everything important stands within a couple of kilometers of the cathedralHalf of the main sights are free to enter; the center fits into one day on foot
DresdenA compact triangle on the bank of the ElbeTwo days are the usual allowance; Saxon Switzerland begins half an hour from the city
NurembergA city with a compact centerA high speed train from Munich takes about an hour; December weekends sell out because of the Christmas market
Baden-BadenA town that grew up around thermal springsThe springs rise right in the middle of town

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Hotels: what the choice depends on

In German cities location matters more than the number of stars. In Munich it is pricier and crowded around Marienplatz, cheaper and closer to transport near the station. In Berlin the advice is to stay inside the S-Bahn ring, from where the way to most of the main sights is short.

Sunset panorama of Marienplatz with the Old Town Hall tower in Munich
Sunset panorama of Marienplatz with the Old Town Hall tower in Munich

The second thing that moves the price is the calendar. In Munich hotels get more expensive during Oktoberfest and the big trade fairs, and people book those dates months ahead. In Berlin the highest prices fall in February and March. December weekends in Dresden, Nuremberg and Cologne sell out because of the Christmas markets, while in November, the low season, hotels bring their prices down.

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Tours, tickets and day trips

It pays to buy tickets in advance wherever entry is timed. At Neuschwanstein the number of tour slots is limited, and in high season they are gone days ahead. The Reichstag dome in Berlin is free to visit, but only with advance registration. In Dresden, the Green Vault and the dome of the Frauenkirche admit visitors with tickets for a set time.

Lake Eibsee with the snow-covered Zugspitze massif in the background
Lake Eibsee with the snow-covered Zugspitze massif in the background

The most convenient base for day trips is Munich. A high speed train takes about an hour to Nuremberg, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Zugspitze are an hour and a half to two hours away, and Bamberg and Rothenburg take up the whole day. The rule is simple: for one day pick either one distant place or two nearer ones close to each other. You need a guide where it is dangerous without one: long crossings of the Wadden Sea mudflats are only done with a licensed guide.

Day trips from Munich: the journey and what to keep in mind
Where toJourney from MunichWhat to keep in mind
NurembergHigh speed train, about an hourThe choice if you do not want a long journey; no car needed
RegensburgTrain, about an hour and a halfAnother nearby destination; no car needed
Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the ZugspitzeTrain, an hour and a half to two hoursIt is often windy and snowy at the top, and the ascent can be closed for a few hours
Neuschwanstein CastleTrain to Füssen, then a busYou can only go inside on a guided tour; tickets for the time you want are gone well ahead
Linderhof PalaceNo direct train, you need a bus or a carThe only palace of Ludwig II that was fully completed
BambergThe journey takes 2-3 hours each wayTakes up the whole day
RothenburgThe journey takes 2-3 hours each wayWithout an overnight stay the day gets long: the trip back takes just as long

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Food and drink: beer, wine, markets

Beer in Germany is brewed under the Reinheitsgebot, the medieval purity law, and a large share of the country's breweries are concentrated in Bavaria. In Munich the beer halls belong on the program just as the museums do.

Weisswurst with pretzel and sweet mustard
Weisswurst with pretzel and sweet mustard. Photo: Jan Czeczotka, CC BY-SA

Wine has its own regions. In Franconia the main grape is Silvaner, which goes into dry white wines bottled in the flat Bocksbeutel. On the Moselle, alongside Riesling, autumn brings Federweißer, a young cloudy wine. At the Christmas markets mulled wine is poured into ceramic mugs against a deposit; in Nuremberg people buy Lebkuchen gingerbread, in Dresden stollen.

Two practical points: bakeries, markets and small cafés do not always take cards, so keep some cash on you; and you state the tip when you pay rather than leaving it on the table.

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Train, bus and rental car

Between the big cities the main transport is the ICE high speed train. From Berlin a direct train reaches Hamburg or Dresden in under two hours and Munich in about four. The ticket type sets the price: the fixed Sparpreis is bought in advance, the flexible Flexpreis costs noticeably more. The FlixBus coach is cheaper but slower: the trip from Berlin to Munich takes about eight hours.

ICE train traveling along the tracks toward a tunnel
ICE train traveling along the tracks toward a tunnel. Photo: Sebastian Terfloth User:Sese_Ingolstadt, CC BY-SA

For regional travel there is the Deutschland-Ticket: it covers regional trains, buses and city transport, but it is not valid on the ICE. In Bavaria the Bayern-Ticket day pass is handy, valid on regional trains, the S-Bahn, the subway, trams and most buses. A transfer booked in advance is worth considering if you land at night, with children or with a lot of luggage.

A rental car pays off where the timetable thins out, for example on the rural stretches of the Romantic Road or in the Eifel. To rent you need a passport, a driver's license and a bank card in the driver's name. Big cities have low emission zones, the Umweltzone, where only cars with a green sticker are allowed, and there is almost no free parking in the centers: you leave the car at a Park&Ride and carry on by train.

Getting around Germany: what works where
How you travelWhere it worksWhat to keep in mind
ICE high speed trainBetween the big cities: from Berlin to Hamburg or Dresden in under two hours, to Munich in about fourThe fixed Sparpreis is bought in advance, the flexible Flexpreis costs noticeably more
FlixBus coachBetween the big citiesCheaper but slower: about eight hours from Berlin to Munich
Deutschland-TicketRegional trains, buses and city transportNot valid on the ICE
Bayern-TicketIn Bavaria: regional trains, the S-Bahn, the subway, trams and most busesIt is a day pass
Rental carWhere the timetable thins out: rural stretches of the Romantic Road, the EifelYou need a passport, a driver's license and a bank card in the driver's name; big cities have the Umweltzone
Transfer booked in advanceThe trip from the airportWorth considering if you land at night, with children or with a lot of luggage

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Best time to go and weather

For cities, spring and autumn are the most comfortable, when the weather is mild. For most castles the best months are May and September: it is warm, but there are fewer groups. In Munich Oktoberfest sets a calendar of its own, running for sixteen days from the second half of September to early October: in those weeks free rooms in the center run out long before the trip.

Striezelmarkt Christmas market in Dresden in winter
Striezelmarkt Christmas market in Dresden in winter. Photo: LH DD/Dittrich, CC BY-SA

Spring arrives unevenly. The southwest comes into bloom first, as early as March, the wild daffodils of the Eifel open in April, and in the Allgäu the snow melts later. The wine festivals in Franconia run from May to October.

November is gray and damp, but it is low season: prices are lower and there are no lines at the museums. The Christmas markets open from the middle and end of November and run through all of Advent, many of them until December 24; Dresden's Striezelmarkt is considered the oldest. The ski season lasts from mid December to April in most areas, and the snow stays longest on the Zugspitze.

Germany by season: what is happening and what to keep in mind
Time of yearWhat is happeningWhat to keep in mind
March and AprilThe southwest comes into bloom in March, the wild daffodils of the Eifel open in AprilSpring arrives unevenly: in the Allgäu the snow melts later
May and SeptemberIt is warm, but there are fewer groupsThe best months for most castles
Second half of September and early OctoberOktoberfest in Munich, sixteen daysFree rooms in the center run out long before the trip
NovemberGray and damp, low seasonPrices are lower and there are no lines at the museums
AdventThe Christmas markets open from the middle and end of November, and many run until December 24December weekends in Dresden, Nuremberg and Cologne sell out
Mid December to AprilSki season in most areasThe snow stays longest on the Zugspitze

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

On a trip through several cities most of the money goes on transport and nights, and both items depend on the date: a train ticket is cheaper when you buy it early, and a hotel gets more expensive on public holidays and during markets and trade fairs.

Where saving really makes a difference: an early ticket at the fixed fare instead of the flexible one, a set lunch menu instead of dinner. A lot of what matters needs no ticket: in Cologne half of the main sights are free to enter, in Berlin half of the major landmarks can be seen without a ticket, and Christmas markets and hiking trails are free everywhere. If you take a car, count more than the daily rate: fuel, insurance and parking often come to more than the rental itself.

You work out your own total in the calculator. It separates accommodation, food, local transport, admissions, getting there and a reserve, so you can see which item is pushing the total up.

Calculate a travel budget for Germany

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Routes: one week, two weeks and scenic roads

The classic first loop is three hubs: Berlin, Munich with the castles of Bavaria, and Hamburg, and a week is enough for it. For two weeks there is a route that works by train and bus, with no car: Berlin, Magdeburg, Munich and Füssen with Neuschwanstein. Munich serves as the base for the trip into the Alps.

Rothenburg lane with half-timbered houses and a tower
Rothenburg lane with half-timbered houses and a tower

The Romantic Road runs from the north to the south of Bavaria, from Würzburg to Füssen: 460 kilometers and 29 towns. It is easier to allow several days for it, with overnight stops in Würzburg, Rothenburg and Füssen. Most of the route can be done without a car, on regional trains and buses.

For walkers there are routes through Saxon Switzerland, from an hour's stroll to a full day, and spring trails from the Eifel to the Allgäu. The same principle works in the cities: the center of Munich, Cologne, Dresden or Düsseldorf fits into one day on foot.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: rules, cash, connectivity

The main everyday surprise is Sunday. On Sundays and public holidays almost all shops are closed, and only gas stations and kiosks at train stations and airports stay open, so buy groceries on Saturday. Glass and plastic containers carry a deposit, the Pfand: you return the empty bottle to a machine in the supermarket and get the money back.

On public transport the rules are stricter than they look. Berlin has no ticket barriers, but a paper ticket is only valid once it has been stamped in the machine. If you are driving: the alcohol limit is 0.5 per mille, the phone is allowed only hands free, and in snow and ice the car has to be on winter tires.

Check the roaming terms for Germany with your own provider before the trip. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read what exactly it covers.

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Common questions about a trip to Germany