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Turkey: the guide for planning it yourself

Turkey: the guide for planning it yourself

Turkey is bordered by four seas, and the coast you choose changes the trip more than the hotel does. The Mediterranean in the south has the longest swimming season, the Aegean in the west combines coves with ancient cities, Istanbul stands on the Sea of Marmara, and the Black Sea in the north means greenery and cooler water. This page lays the country out for planning it yourself: what to see, which coast to pick, how the hotels work, where to fly and when to go. Each section stays short and points on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: tickets, hotels and fares in Turkey are revised too often, so you work out your own total in the calculator.

What to see: the big picture

The highlights of Turkey are gathered in four parts of the country. Istanbul holds the Byzantine and Ottoman heritage: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Basilica Cistern stand close together in Sultanahmet. Cappadocia, in the middle of the country, means rock-cut towns and hot air balloon flights at sunrise. Pamukkale, with its white travertine terraces and ancient Hierapolis, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one ticket covers both parts.

Hagia Sophia with minarets in evening illumination
Hagia Sophia with minarets in evening illumination. Photo: Kecags, CC BY-SA

The fourth part is the coast, where antiquity stands right next to the beach. Perge and Aspendos lie near Belek, in Side the Temple of Apollo comes almost down to the water, Phaselis and Olympos survive near Kemer, and Bodrum grew on the site of ancient Halicarnassus and has kept the Castle of St. Peter. Among natural sights, the most visited are Köprülü Canyon, the Düden Waterfalls and the Ölüdeniz lagoon.

A practical rule: Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are working mosques, so visitors are let in between prayers, and it is worth checking the entry arrangements for Hagia Sophia before your visit.

Four parts of Turkey: what to see and how much time to allow
WhereWhat to seeHow much time and what to keep in mind
IstanbulHagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Basilica Cistern close together in SultanahmetThree days without rushing; visitors are let into the working mosques between prayers
CappadociaRock-cut towns and hot air balloon flights at sunriseTwo days; put the balloon flight on your first days, because in strong wind the flights are canceled
PamukkaleWhite travertine terraces and ancient HierapolisOne day; one ticket covers both parts
The coastPerge and Aspendos near Belek, the Temple of Apollo in Side, Phaselis and Olympos near KemerDay trips from the resort where you are staying

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Seas, resorts and cities: where to go

The Turkish Riviera lies on the Mediterranean. Antalya gives you a big city and a beach in one place. Belek and Side have sand and a gentle slope into the water, so they are chosen more often by families with children; Belek is also considered the most expensive resort on the coast. Kemer sits among pines between the sea and the Taurus Mountains, and the shore there is pebbly. In Alanya the fortress, the harbor and the old town fit into one walk.

Panorama of Alanya from the fortress with the Red Tower
Panorama of Alanya from the fortress with the Red Tower. Photo: Ozgurmulazimoglu, CC BY-SA

The Aegean coast is cut by bays, the water there is a little cooler, and the wind off the sea takes the edge off the mugginess. Bodrum and Marmaris live on yachts and nightlife, İçmeler and Datça are chosen for quiet and pines, and Kuşadası is where people set out for Ephesus.

Istanbul is a trip of its own, and beaches come second there. The Bosphorus divides the city into the European side, with the main sights, and the calmer Asian side; ferries run between the two shores. In Cappadocia people base themselves in Göreme, Uçhisar or Ürgüp. In winter the list grows to include ski resorts, among them Uludağ, Erciyes and Palandöken.

Turkey's four seas: which one suits whom
SeaWhere it lies and what is thereWho it suitsWhat to keep in mind
MediterraneanThe south of the country: Antalya, Belek, Side, Kemer, AlanyaThose who come for warmth and the longest swimming seasonJuly and August are very hot, and it is hard without air conditioning in the room
AegeanThe west: Bodrum, Izmir, Kuşadası, Çeşme close to ancient citiesThose who want to combine the beach with historyThe water is a little cooler and the season shorter; the wind sometimes raises waves
Sea of MarmaraBetween the European and Asian parts of the country; Istanbul stands on its shoreThose who fly to Istanbul and want to add the water to the cityThe beaches do not match the south; this is first of all a city break
Black SeaThe north: Trabzon, Rize, green mountainsThose looking for cooler air and walks in the mountainsSummer is humid and it can rain; the water is the coolest of the four seas

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Hotels: all-inclusive and what to check

On the coast almost the entire market runs on the all-inclusive system. The package usually covers buffet meals, drinks, pools, sports and entertainment; check the exact list with the specific hotel. The number of stars tells you less than three other things: sand or pebbles on the beach, beachfront or second row with a shuttle to the sea, and how long the drive from the airport is. With a small child, go for a short transfer, a gentle slope into the water and a hotel without a loud late-night disco.

Pool, palm trees, and beach with loungers by the sea
Pool, palm trees, and beach with loungers by the sea. Photo: edykbo, CC BY

In budget hotels the weak points are different: the safe may be charged for, air conditioning often comes at a surcharge, and the Wi-Fi sometimes works only in the lobby. For July and August, beachfront hotels are booked up well in advance. In Cappadocia cave hotels with a terrace where you can watch the balloons are a category of their own, and in Istanbul you choose the neighborhood first.

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Tours and tickets

Full-day excursions leave from almost every resort on the Antalya coast: a bus picks you up at the hotel and brings you back in the evening. The most popular are Pamukkale with Hierapolis, Cappadocia with an overnight stay, rafting in Köprülü Canyon and a boat trip to the sunken ruins off Kekova Island, and in Istanbul a Bosphorus cruise. At the hotel front desk, excursions are often sold at a markup.

Dozens of hot air balloons over Cappadocia valley
Dozens of hot air balloons over Cappadocia valley. Photo: This Photo was taken by Wolfgang Moroder . Feel free to use my photos, but please mention me as the author and send me a, CC BY-SA

Put the balloon flight in Cappadocia on your first days: in strong wind the flights are canceled, and you will need a spare morning. Istanbul's state museums are covered by the Museum Pass Istanbul: it is valid for five days from first entry and gives one visit to each museum. Buy timed tickets for Istanbul's museums, theme parks and water parks online.

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Food: where and what to order

Turkish cooking is built on vegetables, fresh herbs, fish and meat. A convenient way to order is meze, lots of small starters instead of one big dish. For hot dishes people go for kebabs and lahmacun, by the Bosphorus for grilled fish, and they finish with baklava and tea.

Cup of Turkish coffee on a tray with a glass of water
Cup of Turkish coffee on a tray with a glass of water. Photo: Tema, CC BY-SA

The best value is to eat where the locals eat: in a lokanta, a simple place serving home-style food. If the menu is posted only in Turkish, the bill is usually noticeably lower. In Istanbul a lot is eaten on the go: sesame simit from the morning carts, balık ekmek, a fried fish sandwich, by the Galata Bridge in Eminönü, kumpir in Ortaköy.

Turkish coffee is brewed in a cezve and not filtered, so grounds at the bottom are normal. Tap water is best avoided, ask for a sealed bottle. In a restaurant it is customary to leave about a tenth of the bill.

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Airports, getting to your hotel and local transport

Choose your airport by resort, not by ticket price. Antalya serves Kemer, Belek, Side and Alanya. Dalaman serves Fethiye, Ölüdeniz and Marmaris. Izmir and Milas-Bodrum open up the Aegean coast. Istanbul has two airports: Istanbul Airport on the European side and Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side, and a transfer between them takes half a day.

City ferry on the Bosphorus at sunset
City ferry on the Bosphorus at sunset. Photo: Tarikkaanmuslu, CC BY-SA

From the terminal to the hotel there are four options: a shuttle bus, a taxi, a rental car and a private transfer. A transfer is booked in advance: you see the price before the trip, and the driver meets you in the arrivals hall.

Once you are there, the dolmuş helps over short distances, a shared minibus on a set route that lets you off wherever you need. In Istanbul the Istanbulkart works on the metro, trams, buses and ferries, and a car in the city is more of a hindrance. Comfortable buses run between cities. A rental car makes sense for a long route along the coast, and it is best booked before you fly.

Airports in Turkey: which one for which resort
AirportWhich resorts and cities it servesWhat to keep in mind
AntalyaAntalya, Kemer, Belek, Side, AlanyaAbout 35 minutes to Belek, about an hour to Kemer and Side, more than two hours to Alanya
DalamanFethiye, Ölüdeniz, MarmarisAbout an hour to Fethiye, about two hours to Marmaris; fewer direct flights than to Antalya
IzmirIzmir, Çeşme, Kuşadası, EphesusMore than an hour to Çeşme and Kuşadası; a commuter train runs to the center of Izmir
Milas-BodrumBodrum and the other resorts on the peninsulaLittle public transport, so it is awkward without a transfer or a car; in winter the flight schedule is short
Istanbul AirportCentral Istanbul and the European sideLong-haul international flights; the M11 metro runs to the center
Sabiha GökçenThe Asian side of IstanbulLow-cost and domestic flights; the M4 metro runs to the Asian part of the city

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Best time to go and weather

On the Turkish Riviera people swim from May to October. The most even months for the beach are late May, June, September and the first half of October: the sea is warm and the heat is bearable. July and August bring the warmest water and the toughest conditions: humidity intensifies the heat, and hotel prices are at their peak. In November some hotels close for the winter.

Sandy beach, sea and snow-capped Taurus Mountains
Sandy beach, sea and snow-capped Taurus Mountains

On the Aegean the season is shorter because the water is cooler. For Istanbul, May, June, September and October work well; in summer the city is hot and crowded, in winter damp and windy.

Winter is the time for cities, not the sea: museum lines are shorter, the ancient cities are almost empty, the ski season starts in the mountains, and the thermal springs are open all year.

The Turkish Riviera by season: weather, sea and what it is good for
PeriodWeather and seaWhat it is good for
Late May and JuneMild heat, the sea is already warm, the beaches have roomThe beach and a vacation with children
July and AugustThe warmest water of the year; humidity intensifies the heatSwimming in the morning and evening; hotel prices are at their peak
September and the first half of OctoberThe sea holds its summer warmth, the heat easesA warm sea without exhausting heat; lines at the ancient cities are shorter
The second half of October and NovemberMore rainy days, the nights are coolWalks and excursions; in November some hotels close for the winter
WinterMild during the day, more frequent rain, the sea is coldMuseums with shorter lines, almost empty ancient cities, skiing in the mountains, thermal springs

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

There are no daily rates here: prices in Turkey are revised often, and the lira exchange rate moves along with them. It matters more to know what the total is made of. The biggest item is the flight, especially in July and August. Accommodation comes next: hotels on the coast at the height of summer and Istanbul cost more than the rest of the country, and the cave hotels of Cappadocia are a separate, most expensive category. Admission prices have risen the most noticeably, and in many places a separate rate applies to foreign visitors.

Where saving actually gets you something: traveling in May, June, September or October, booking early, lunch at a lokanta instead of a tourist restaurant, a dolmuş instead of a taxi, paying in lira rather than in euros. Water and groceries are cheaper at the discount chains BİM, A101 and Şok.

You work out your own total in the calculator: it separates accommodation, food, transport, admissions, travel there and a reserve.

Calculate a travel budget for Turkey

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Routes: Istanbul, the coast and Cappadocia

The simplest format is one base by the sea with day trips. From Kemer that gets you to Phaselis, Göynük Canyon and the cable car up Tahtalı, from Belek to Perge, Aspendos and Köprülü Canyon. If you want to add more of the country to a week, a workable split is this: two days for Cappadocia, a day for Pamukkale, the rest in and around Antalya. It is about seven hours by road from Antalya to Cappadocia, so for a relaxed pace allow ten or fourteen days.

Pamukkale travertine terraces with blue thermal water
Pamukkale travertine terraces with blue thermal water. Photo: Biologg, CC BY-SA

Istanbul needs a plan of its own. In one day on foot you cover Sultanahmet, the bazaars and the Galata Tower, with an evening Bosphorus cruise. Three days fit Sultanahmet, Galata and the Asian shore without rushing. Five days divide up like this: two days for the historic peninsula, the third for Beyoğlu, the fourth for the Asian side, the fifth for the palaces.

If you are traveling for experiences rather than the beach, put Istanbul and Cappadocia in one route: intercity buses run between them.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: rules, customs, connectivity, insurance

According to our articles, citizens of Germany and most EU countries enter Turkey without a visa for a tourist stay: up to 90 days within a 180-day period. Check the rules for your own passport and the requirements for the document's validity before you buy tickets.

Dome and interior paintings of the Blue Mosque
Dome and interior paintings of the Blue Mosque. Photo: Karelj, CC BY-SA

Some local rules come as a surprise to visitors. Drinking alcohol in the street, in parks and on waterfront promenades is prohibited; it is served in bars, restaurants and hotels. Photographing military sites and police officers is not allowed, and people in the street are photographed only with their permission. Do not buy old coins, fossils or objects “with a history”, and do not carry them in your luggage: cultural property is considered state property.

You enter a mosque without shoes, shoulders and legs must be covered, and women need a headscarf. At markets, stations and airports, keep an eye on your belongings.

Check the roaming terms for Turkey with your own carrier before you travel. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and contact with the hotel. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read exactly what it covers.

Build a packing list for the Turkey trip

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Common questions about a trip to Turkey