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Italy: the guide for planning it yourself

Italy: the guide for planning it yourself

Italy is not one destination but twenty very different regions in one piece. Between the Dolomites and Sicily lie more than a thousand kilometers, several climate zones and cuisines that have little to do with each other. Anyone who tries to see half of that on a first visit spends the trip on trains. This page sorts the country for your own planning: what each region stands for, where you stay, how you move, when you go and what you calculate your costs with. Every section stays short and leads on to our detailed articles. Prices are not here: between low season and August they swing so hard in Italy that a fixed number would mislead you.

The regions and cities at a glance

Four cities carry most first trips: Rome for antiquity, Florence for the Renaissance, Venice for the lagoon and Milan for fashion, design and the shortest routes north. Naples joins them when Vesuvius, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast are in the plan.

Colosseum in Rome in soft morning light among trees
Colosseum in Rome in soft morning light among trees

Beyond that, what is not on every list is worth the time: Bologna as a food city, Turin with its arcades, Genoa on the sea, Verona for the arena, the Cinque Terre on the cliff coast and Etna in Sicily. If you have already been to Italy three times, that is where the second layer of the country sits.

Italy is among the countries with the most UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world. In practice that means: even mid sized towns hold something that elsewhere would justify a trip of its own.

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Coast, islands and where to stay

For a beach holiday Italy splits into three parts: the Adriatic in the east with long, gently shelving sandy beaches and the densest hotel structure; the Tyrrhenian west with coves and rock; and the islands of Sardinia and Sicily, where beach and culture coincide.

Panoramic view of Costa Rei with beach and sea
Panoramic view of Costa Rei with beach and sea. Photo: Alex10, CC BY-SA

Sardinia stands for water and coastline, Sicily for coast plus antiquity plus volcano. Families with small children usually get on most easily on the Adriatic, because the water stays shallow a long way out and the towns are set up for kids.

For accommodation the same rule applies nationwide as in Rome: in the historic core you pay for location, outside it you pay in travel time. In coastal towns a second point comes in that photos never show: whether the beach in front of the hotel is freely accessible or divided into sections with sun loungers.

Italy's coasts and islands: which suits whom
Coast or islandThe beachWho it suits
Adriatic: Rimini, Lido di JesoloLong sandy beaches, shallow water and a gentle way inFamilies with small children
Liguria: Genoa, PortofinoRock and pebbles, small covesTravelers who like views and mix the sea with walks
Amalfi, Positano and CapriMountain views; in Positano the water gets deep close to shoreCouples without kids; Capri and Amalfi cost the most
Puglia: Otranto, GallipoliSand and turquoise water, shallow in GallipoliFamilies and anyone looking for quiet
Calabria: Scilla, TropeaSand and pebbles, deep water in TropeaAnyone after quiet and sea views
SardiniaWhite sandAnyone after wild nature
Sicily: Mondello, CefalùSand, shallow in Mondello; the sea stays warm longerAnyone who wants to combine the sea with antiquity and a volcano

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Hotels: what sets the price in Italy

Three factors move the price more than the star rating: season, distance to the water or to the historic core, and whether breakfast and air conditioning are included. In coastal towns the jump between June and August is bigger than the one between three and four stars.

Pink facade of the Regina Isabella hotel with columns
Pink facade of the Regina Isabella hotel with columns. Photo: Abxbay, CC BY-SA

The tourist tax is charged on site almost everywhere in Italy, per person per night, and it is in no booking. With holiday apartments there is often a final cleaning fee on top that the displayed price does not include.

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Tours and skip the line tickets

For the Uffizi in Florence, the Vatican Museums in Rome, the Doge's Palace in Venice and the excavations at Pompeii, a timed ticket bought in advance is the only version that works reliably in summer.

Courtyard of the Uffizi Gallery with colonnades and tourists
Courtyard of the Uffizi Gallery with colonnades and tourists. Photo: Arek N., CC BY-SA

A guided tour pays off where without context only surface area remains: the Roman Forum, Pompeii, Etna. In museums with clear labelling and in churches you manage fine on your own.

Tickets in Italy: where you need a timed slot in advance
SightTicketGood to know
Uffizi Gallery, FlorenceBook a timed slot in advanceClosed on Mondays; it is quieter in the first morning slot or after 4 p.m.
Accademia Gallery, FlorenceBook a timed slot in advanceClosed on Mondays; in summer you wait more than an hour without a slot
Vatican Museums, RomeSkip-the-line ticket, ideally for a morning slotClosed on Sundays, except the last Sunday of the month
Colosseum, RomeBuy a timed ticket a few days aheadThe same ticket covers the Roman Forum and the Palatine; tickets are issued in your name
Doge's Palace, VeniceOnline ticket with a morning slotOpen every day; allow at least half a day
PompeiiBuy tickets online: in high season slots sell out a day or two aheadGo in the morning, there is almost no shade; tickets are issued in your name, so keep your ID handy
Pantheon, RomeYou can easily buy a ticket on the spotThe line is short; it is a working church, and entry is limited during Mass

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Food: regional, not Italian

There is no Italian cuisine, there are twenty regional ones. In the north butter, rice and polenta, in the middle olive oil and durum wheat pasta, in the south tomato, fish and citrus. Bologna, Rome and Naples stand for three kitchens that barely share a dish.

Tagliatelle with ragù and a carafe of wine in a trattoria
Tagliatelle with ragù and a carafe of wine in a trattoria. Photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA

Two practical points: coffee is billed lower standing at the bar than at a table, and that is not a trick but price law. And the cover charge, the coperto, appears in many regions as its own line on the bill; it is not a service charge and not a tip.

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Trains, rental cars and the way in from the airport

Between Turin, Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples and Salerno there are high speed trains, and on that axis the railway beats the car in almost every respect: it stops in the center, you need no parking space and no permit for the old town.

Red Frecciarossa train at the platform under the station vault
Red Frecciarossa train at the platform under the station vault. Photo: Daniel Case, CC BY-SA

A rental car pays off where the railway thins out: Tuscany away from the cities, Puglia, Sardinia, the interior of Sicily. What matters there is the ZTL, the restricted traffic zone in almost every historic center. It is camera enforced, and the notices arrive months later via the rental company.

The big airports are Rome Fiumicino and Milan Malpensa, plus Bergamo, Linate, Venice, Naples, Catania and Palermo. Almost everywhere there is a train or airport bus into the center; a fixed price transfer pays off at night, with children or when the hotel is out of the way.

Getting around Italy: what to take
RouteHow to travelGood to know
Between the big cities: Milan, Florence, Rome, NaplesFrecciarossa and Italo high speed trainsRome to Milan takes about three hours, Florence and Naples about an hour and a half; tickets are cheaper a few weeks ahead
Across the country on a tight budgetIntercity trains, day and nightSlower than the high speed trains; night trains link north and south
Between neighboring towns and to the coastRegionale trainsNo seat reservations; not every train has air conditioning and Wi-Fi
From Fiumicino airport to central RomeLeonardo Express train to Termini station32 minutes nonstop; the shuttle bus is cheaper but takes 50-60 minutes depending on traffic
From Malpensa airport to MilanMalpensa Express train to Cadorna and Centrale stationsLess than an hour; the bus is cheaper and takes about 50 minutes
From Linate airport to MilanMetro line M4About 12 minutes
Tuscany away from the cities, Puglia, Sardinia, the interior of SicilyRental carHistoric centers have a ZTL: cameras record every entry without a permit

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Best time to go and weather

For cities May, June, September and October are the reliable months. July and August are hot, expensive and full, and in August restaurants and shops close in smaller towns because Italy itself is on holiday.

Panorama of Cortina d'Ampezzo and the Dolomites
Panorama of Cortina d'Ampezzo and the Dolomites. Photo: kallerna, CC BY-SA

For the beach the season on the Adriatic and in the Tyrrhenian Sea is shorter than many think: before June and after mid September the water is too fresh for a lot of people. In the south and on the islands the window shifts later. For skiing in the Dolomites and for the thermal baths the calculation runs the other way.

Italy by season: when to go and what for
PeriodWeather and crowdsGood for
April and MaySpring across the country, mild air; in the south May already feels like summerCities, the northern lakes, the start of the swimming season in the south
JuneEarly summer, warm and mostly stable; crowds are growingThe sea without peak heat and crowds, lakes, hiking
July and AugustHot, the biggest crowds; the peak is Ferragosto on August 15Swimming and hiking in the mountains; cities are best avoided
September and OctoberThe sea is still warm, the heat eases, crowds thin outCities; swimming in September, and in the south in October too
December through MarchCold and snowy in the north, mild in the south; cities are at their quietestSkiing in the Dolomites and the Alps, low-cost trips to southern cities

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

Italy is not expensive or cheap across the board, it is both inside the same country. Between one base in Tuscany in August and the same trip at the end of September lie worlds, and the same goes for a room in the center of Venice against one on the mainland.

So there is no number here, there is the calculator. It separates accommodation, food, local transport, admissions, getting there and a reserve, and shows which item is driving your total.

Calculate a travel budget for Italy

Routes: first trip and repeat visit

The classic first round is the rail axis: Venice, Florence, Rome, with a day in Bologna in between. Ten days are enough for that without rushing, and you need no car.

Sunset over the Grand Canal in Venice with gondolas and boats
Sunset over the Grand Canal in Venice with gondolas and boats

If you have already been, change the layer: northern Italy with Milan, Turin and the lakes; the south with Naples, the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii; or one island in one piece, Sicily or Sardinia, with a rental car and two or three bases instead of a daily move.

The rule most plans fail on: at most one change of base every two nights. Every move costs half a travel day with packing, station and check in.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: network, insurance, luggage

Italy is in the EU and in the euro area, and neither of those helps a US phone plan: American carriers do not include EU roaming, so an international day pass or an eSIM is the choice, and the eSIM is usually the cheaper one. UK plans differ since Brexit, some kept EU roaming inclusive and others charge a daily fee, so check your own tariff before you fly.

Churches have a dress code, and in the big cathedrals it is checked at the door. Many city centers have cameras for the ZTL, and Venice and some coastal towns have rules against sitting and eating in certain places; the fines are collected on the spot.

The EU health insurance card covers state basic care, and if you are insured in the US there is no equivalent for you. UK residents have the GHIC, which gets you state care but not repatriation and not a private clinic. That gap is exactly what travel insurance closes, which makes it a necessity here rather than an extra.

Build a packing list for the Italy trip

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Common questions about a trip to Italy