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Egypt: a travel guide for independent planning

Egypt: a travel guide for independent planning

Egypt is made up of two different trips. The first is the sea: the Red Sea resorts, where people swim all year round, and the Mediterranean coast with its milder climate. The second is the Nile Valley with the Pyramids of Giza, the temples of Luxor and Abu Simbel. The sights are scattered from the Nile Delta to Nubia, and the journeys between them eat up vacation days. This page lays the country out for independent planning: what to see, which resort suits whom, how to choose a hotel, how to get around and when to go. Each section stays short and leads on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: hotel costs depend on the season, and tickets to the sights are revised from time to time, so any figure would quickly go out of date.

Sights: Giza, Luxor, Abu Simbel and Sinai

A first sightseeing trip usually starts in Giza. The plateau holds the pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure and the Sphinx, and it is the only surviving wonder of the ancient world. There is almost no shade there, so arrive for opening time. The Grand Egyptian Museum is open in Giza, and in Cairo the Egyptian Museum and the Hanging Church in the Coptic quarter are worth the time.

Pyramids of Giza in Egypt against the desert
Pyramids of Giza in Egypt against the desert. Photo: Ricardo Liberato, CC BY-SA

The second hub is Luxor. On the west bank of the Nile lies the Valley of the Kings, where the tomb of Tutankhamun was found, and the Colossi of Memnon stand on the way to it. In the city itself are Karnak Temple, the largest temple complex of Ancient Egypt, and Luxor Temple, which is lit up toward evening. Farther south still, in Nubia, the two rock temples of Abu Simbel stand above Lake Nasser. Twice a year, in late February and late October, the sun reaches the sanctuary of the Great Temple.

In the north lies Alexandria with the Citadel of Qaitbay, built on the site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria. The natural sites are concentrated in Sinai and in the desert: Ras Mohammed National Park with its coral reefs, Mount Sinai with Saint Catherine's Monastery, the Colored Canyon near Nuweiba and the White Desert near the Farafra oasis.

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Resorts and regions: where to go

On the Red Sea the choice most often comes down to two resorts. Hurghada is considered the oldest resort in the country: long sandy beaches and a gentle entry into the water, which is why it is recommended to families with children and to first-time visitors. There is almost no coral near the shore there, and people reach the reefs by boat. Sharm El Sheikh occupies the south of the Sinai Peninsula, and its coral begins right at the shore.

Aerial view of hotels and beaches in Hurghada
Aerial view of hotels and beaches in Hurghada. Photo: Marc Ryckaert, CC BY

Quieter places lie around these two centers. Makadi Bay, Soma Bay and Sahl Hasheesh are calm resort areas near Hurghada, and El Gouna is cut through by canals. Marsa Alam is considered the southernmost resort in Egypt: the reefs come up to the shore, the beaches are uncrowded, and life is centered on the hotels. Dahab in Sinai is chosen for its wind, which suits windsurfing, and for the Blue Hole, but it is not suitable for swimming with small children.

On the Mediterranean coast the climate is milder, there are fewer tourists, and the swimming season is shorter. Alexandria combines city beaches with ancient sights, El Alamein appeals with its quiet, and Marsa Matruh with its gentle entry into the sea is popular with families.

Egypt's resorts: which one suits whom
ResortWho it suitsWhat to keep in mind
HurghadaFamilies with children and first-time visitorsAlmost no coral near the shore, the reefs are reached by boat
Sharm El SheikhThose who come for coral and snorkeling right off the shoreThe “Sinai only” stamp is valid only in the resort areas of South Sinai
Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Sahl HasheeshThose looking for a calm resort areaThey lie near Hurghada
Marsa AlamThose looking for quiet, reefs near the shore and divingLife is centered on the hotels
DahabWindsurfers and divers: the wind and the Blue HoleNot suitable for swimming with small children
AlexandriaThose who combine a city beach with ancient sightsThe swimming season is shorter than on the Red Sea
Marsa MatruhFamilies: a gentle entry into the seaThe swimming season is shorter than on the Red Sea

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Hotels: all-inclusive, beachfront and entry into the sea

Most resort hotels in Egypt work on an all-inclusive basis. It usually covers buffet meals, local drinks, pools, the beach and entertainment. Almost everywhere, à la carte restaurants, imported alcohol, the spa, diving and excursions are paid for separately. The list differs from chain to chain, so check it before you book.

Pool with palm trees and Jaz Fanara resort buildings
Pool with palm trees and Jaz Fanara resort buildings. Photo: Ralf Houven, CC BY

The area and the stretch of coast matter more than the number of stars. Beachfront means reaching the beach without crossing a road or taking a hotel bus; in some complexes a shuttle takes guests to the sea. Look at the entry into the water: a sandy lagoon is convenient for small children, while where there is coral near the shore you enter the sea from a jetty and need reef shoes.

For a winter trip, look for a hotel with heated pools: the water is heated roughly from November to April.

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Excursions, tickets and diving

Get tickets to the main sites of the Nile Valley in advance: for the Valley of the Kings, Karnak and Luxor temples, and in season for Abu Simbel too. Entry inside the Great Pyramid of Khufu is paid for separately from the plateau, and the daily quota there is small. Buy excursions from trusted sellers, not from random people on the beach.

Facade of Abu Simbel temple with colossi of Ramesses II
Facade of Abu Simbel temple with colossi of Ramesses II

Long-distance outings take a whole day. Abu Simbel is reached from Aswan: groups set off early in the morning and return toward evening. Mount Sinai is climbed at night to meet the sunrise at the summit; climbing without a guide is prohibited. Departures are from Sharm El Sheikh, Dahab and Taba.

For diving without a certificate, only dives with an instructor after an introductory course are available. Beginners are advised to try Ras Mohammed and Abu Dabbab Bay with its turtles and dugongs, and experienced divers the Elphinstone Reef and the Brothers Islands.

Excursions and sites: where they leave from and what to know in advance
SiteWhere they leave fromWhat to keep in mind
Valley of the Kings, Karnak and Luxor templesLuxorGet tickets in advance
Inside the Great Pyramid of KhufuThe Giza Plateau outside CairoEntry is paid for separately from the plateau, the daily quota is small
Abu SimbelAswanDeparture early in the morning, return toward evening; in season get the ticket in advance
Mount SinaiSharm El Sheikh, Dahab, TabaA night climb for the sunrise at the summit; climbing without a guide is prohibited
Ras Mohammed National ParkSharm El SheikhA site for beginner divers; without a certificate you dive only with an instructor

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Food: the hotel, the market and the evening after sunset

At the resorts most guests eat in the hotel, because breakfast, lunch and dinner are part of the all-inclusive package. It is worth stepping outside the hotel for the market: Egyptian mango is praised in particular, and there are also guava, papaya, pomegranates and melon.

Mandarin seller at Dahar Market in Hurghada
Mandarin seller at Dahar Market in Hurghada. Photo: Menshov Vladimir, CC BY

Tea in Egypt is not steeped but boiled for a long time and often drunk with milk or mint, and the best-known variety at the markets is karkade. Coffee is made strong, with cardamom. Among the national sweets, the ones named most often are qatayef, filled feteer and om ali.

During Ramadan some cafes outside the resorts are closed in the daytime, but after sunset iftar begins: dates and water, and then a full dinner. Many hotels and restaurants put on an iftar buffet, and a place at it is booked in advance. Drink bottled water and wash fruit.

Transportation: airports, journeys and transfers

There are direct flights from Europe to Hurghada and Sharm El Sheikh, so these resorts are the easiest to reach. Marsa Alam has its own international airport; if there is no direct flight from your city, you fly to Hurghada and then travel along the coast by transfer for several hours.

Airplane at Hurghada Airport terminal
Airplane at Hurghada Airport terminal. Photo: Sergey A. Demidov, CC BY

Distances between the regions are large. From Cairo to Luxor there is a domestic flight that takes about an hour and a night train that takes longer. From Hurghada to Luxor the drive is about four hours one way. A single desert highway leads from Aswan to Abu Simbel: people get there by excursion bus, by car with a driver, or by plane.

Taxis here do not run on a meter, and the fare is agreed before you get in. It is worth booking the airport transfer in advance, especially if you arrive late in the evening or with children.

Getting around Egypt: how to travel
RouteHow to travelWhat to keep in mind
From Europe to Hurghada and Sharm El SheikhDirect flightThe easiest way to get to the sea
From Hurghada to Marsa AlamTransfer along the coastThe journey takes several hours; Marsa Alam also has its own international airport
From Cairo to LuxorDomestic flight or night trainThe flight takes about an hour, the train takes longer
From Hurghada to LuxorOverland journeyAbout four hours one way
From Aswan to Abu SimbelExcursion bus, car with a driver, or planeA single desert highway leads there
From the airport to the hotelA transfer booked in advance or a taxiTaxis have no meter, the fare is agreed before you get in

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Best time to go and the weather

The best month depends on the region, not on the country. On the Red Sea people swim all year round, and it is most comfortable there from October to April: in summer the air rises above 35 °C. In winter the water stays at about 21-23 °C, the evenings are cool, and you need a jacket. On the Mediterranean people swim from May to October, and in winter it is cool there with occasional rain.

Red Sea sand beach in April
Red Sea sand beach in April. Photo: Marc Ryckaert, CC BY

The pyramids and Luxor are best visited from March to May and in October and November. A Nile cruise is comfortable from October to April; in summer Luxor can reach 41 °C, and excursions are moved to the early morning. In spring the khamsin may arrive, a hot wind carrying sand: an episode usually lasts a day or two, so keep a spare day.

The peak of demand and prices falls on Christmas and New Year. Ramadan shifts through the calendar every year: resort hotels operate as usual, while temples and museums close earlier.

When to go: Egypt's regions by season
RegionBest monthsWhat to keep in mind
Red SeaOctober to April, swimming all year roundIn summer the air is above 35 °C; in winter the water is about 21-23 °C and the evenings are cool
MediterraneanMay to OctoberIn winter it is cool with occasional rain
The pyramids and LuxorMarch to May and October to NovemberIn spring the khamsin may arrive, keep a spare day
Nile cruiseOctober to AprilIn summer Luxor can reach 41 °C, excursions are moved to the early morning

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

The total is determined by the season, the resort and the type of vacation. The most expensive weeks are Christmas and New Year. On the Red Sea the low season falls in summer, on the Mediterranean it is cheaper from November to April, and Nile cruises get cheaper from June to August.

The resorts differ too. Makadi Bay, Dahab and Nuweiba are considered cheaper. Ain Sokhna, Port Ghalib and El Quseir cost noticeably more. All-inclusive makes spending predictable, but excursions, diving, the spa, transfers and the visa remain outside the package.

At the bazaar the price is negotiable and haggling is considered normal there, while in shops with price tags you pay the listed price. You work out your own total in the calculator: it separates accommodation, food, transportation, entry tickets and a reserve.

Calculate a travel budget for Egypt

Routes: a week across the country, a cruise and day trips from the resort

In one day you cover Giza or Luxor, but not the whole country at once: they are about 650 km apart. A week-long route is usually divided into three parts. The first days go to Cairo: the Giza Plateau with the Sphinx, the museums and the Khan el-Khalili market. Next comes a domestic flight to Luxor for the Valley of the Kings and Karnak Temple, then Aswan with Philae Temple and Abu Simbel. It makes sense to spend the last days by the sea, in Hurghada or Sharm El Sheikh.

Feluccas on the Nile in Luxor
Feluccas on the Nile in Luxor

The second way to see the south is a cruise between Luxor and Aswan with stops at the temples.

If the beach is the core of the vacation, the sights are added as day trips: from Hurghada to Luxor and Cairo, from Sharm El Sheikh to Ras Mohammed National Park and to Mount Sinai. Plan each of these outings as a separate day.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

Practical matters: visa, safety, customs, connectivity

A visa is required for a trip to Egypt. The electronic visa is issued through the official portal, and the application is submitted at least seven days before departure; the other option is a visa on arrival at the airport. Your passport must be valid for another six months. The free “Sinai only” stamp given after landing in Sharm El Sheikh is valid only in the resort areas of South Sinai, and trips beyond them require a full visa. Check the requirements for your passport on the official portal before buying tickets.

The Red Sea resorts and the south of Sinai are considered calm for tourists, while North and Central Sinai are not visited. Before the trip, look through the current official travel advice for the country. Outside the resorts, dress modestly; during Ramadan do not eat, drink or smoke in the street in the daytime. Taking coral, shells and antique objects out of the country is prohibited.

Check the roaming terms for Egypt with your carrier before the trip. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and contact with the hotel. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read what exactly it covers.

Build a packing list for the Egypt trip

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Frequently asked questions about a trip to Egypt