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Greece: the guide for planning it yourself

Greece: the guide for planning it yourself

Greece is a mainland plus islands, about six thousand of them across the country, of which only 227 are inhabited. One trip realistically covers one or two islands, so it starts with a choice: Athens with its antiquity, one big island for a week, or several small ones linked by ferry. Moving between islands takes a whole day, and that belongs in the plan from the start. This page sorts the country for your own planning: what to see, which island or region to choose, how hotels, ferries and roads work, and when to go. Every section stays short and leads on to our detailed articles. There are no prices here: hotels, ferries and tickets in Greece rise and fall with the season, so you work out your own total in the calculator.

What to see: the big picture

Athens carries the country's ancient program. The Acropolis with the Parthenon stands above the city, the Theater of Dionysus lies on its southern slope, and close by in the center are the Ancient and Roman Agoras, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the marble Panathenaic Stadium.

The Acropolis with the Parthenon above the city of Athens
The Acropolis with the Parthenon above the city of Athens

On the mainland, Meteora in Thessaly is worth a trip of its own: six working monasteries on top of rock pillars above the town of Kalambaka, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Delphi, with the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, lies at the foot of Mount Parnassus. In Thessaloniki people go to see the White Tower on the waterfront, the Arch of Galerius and the Byzantine churches, and in Halkidiki the Petralona Cave.

On the islands history stands next to the beach. On Crete it is the Palace of Knossos near Heraklion and the fortress of Spinalonga; on Rhodes the medieval old town on the UNESCO list and the acropolis of Lindos; on Corfu the Venetian old town with its two fortresses; on Santorini the caldera and the excavations at Akrotiri.

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Islands, regions and cities: where to go

The islands are grouped into archipelagos, which makes the choice easier. The Cyclades offer white towns and volcanic beaches: people pick Santorini for the caldera and the sunsets, Mykonos for the nightlife. The Dodecanese mean ancient history: Rhodes, Kos and Karpathos. The Ionian Islands are greener, with a milder climate: Corfu, Zakynthos, Kefalonia.

Blue domes and white houses of Oia on Santorini
Blue domes and white houses of Oia on Santorini. Photo: Giles Laurent, CC BY-SA

Crete stands apart: it is the largest island in the country, and you cannot get around all of it in one trip. The best beaches lie in the west, from Balos to Elafonisi, the all-inclusive hotels and the nightlife cluster in the northeast around Malia, and Chania or Rethymno are the recommended base for a first visit.

On the mainland, Athens works as a city for a few days and Thessaloniki as the country's second city, with a Byzantine heritage. Halkidiki is three peninsulas: Kassandra with its hotels and lively beaches, the quieter and greener Sithonia, and Athos with its monasteries. The Peloponnese is chosen for antiquity and quiet. Families with children most often go to Crete, Rhodes, Kos, Corfu and Zakynthos, and those after peace and quiet to Karpathos, Ikaria, Samos and Andros.

Greek islands and regions: which one suits whom
DestinationWho it suitsWhat to keep in mind
CreteA first trip of a week, families with childrenThe largest island in the country, you cannot get around all of it in one trip; Chania or Rethymno are the recommended base
RhodesAncient history and beaches, families with childrenMore compact than Crete and easy to get around in a few days
SantoriniCaldera views and sunsetsThe island is compact, three or four days are enough
MykonosNightlifeAllow three or four days
Corfu, Zakynthos, KefaloniaGreen islands with a milder climate; families with children go to Corfu and ZakynthosIn October the rains are already beginning on the Ionian Islands
HalkidikiA beach vacation on the mainlandThree peninsulas: Kassandra with its hotels and lively beaches, the quieter Sithonia, and Athos with its monasteries
AthensA city for a few days with antiquityBest months: April, May, September and October
Karpathos, Ikaria, Samos, AndrosThose after peace and quietA move between islands takes a whole day, so build that into the plan from the start

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Hotels: all-inclusive and what to check

On the islands many resort hotels run on an all-inclusive basis. The price usually covers breakfast, lunch and dinner, drinks and some of the entertainment, but the package varies: ask whether alcohol, dinners in the à la carte restaurants, sun loungers and umbrellas are included. Check the type of beach too, sand or pebbles, and the journey from the airport: on Crete it takes anywhere from ten minutes to two hours.

Panorama of Elounda with white hotels by the turquoise bay
Panorama of Elounda with white hotels by the turquoise bay. Photo: George Groutas Camera location 35° 15′ 22.4″ N, 25° 44′ 05.77″ E View this and other nearby images on: OpenStreetMap 35., CC BY

Book hotels with their own beach several months ahead, especially if you need particular dates and family rooms. In winter the resort villages on the islands are closed, and hotels operate only in the towns. In Athens you choose the neighborhood first: Plaka or Monastiraki right by the Acropolis for a first visit, while Koukaki is quieter and cheaper.

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Tours and tickets

You need a timed ticket for the Acropolis in Athens: in high season the slots go several days ahead, and without a booking you can stand at the entrance for more than an hour. Entry to the acropolis of Lindos on Rhodes is sold online by time slot in the same way. Meteora has no combined ticket, and admission is paid in cash separately at each monastery.

Monastery on a rock in Meteora at sunset
Monastery on a rock in Meteora at sunset. Photo: Ioannis Ioannidis, CC BY-SA

A tour pays off where the journey is complicated. From Athens the bus to Meteora takes about four and a half hours and the train about five each way, so a day tour takes the timetable and the closing days off your hands. Cape Sounion with the Temple of Poseidon is easiest to reach on a day tour from Athens. On Crete a typical day trip is the Lasithi Plateau with a wine tasting and the Kera Monastery.

Tickets in Greece: where you need a timed entry
SiteTicket and entryWhat to keep in mind
The Acropolis in AthensTimed ticket; you choose the slot when you buyIn high season the slots go several days ahead; allow three hours for the visit
The acropolis of Lindos on RhodesEntry by hourly time slot, tickets are sold onlineThe climb is long and goes up steps, so bring water in the heat
The Meteora monasteriesNo combined ticket; admission is paid in cash separately at each monasteryEach monastery is closed one day a week, and all six are open on weekends
The Palace of Knossos on CreteA ticket with a time slot is best booked online in advanceThe visit takes an hour and a half to two hours; there is little shade, so bring water and a hat

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Food: how to read a taverna menu

Greek cooking rests on a handful of ingredients: olive oil, vegetables, feta cheese, fish, and meat grilled over charcoal. A meal starts with meze, a set of small dishes placed in the middle of the table and shared by everyone: tzatziki, dolmadakia, fava. Order two or three per person, otherwise there will be no room left for the main course.

Greek meze appetizers on a wooden tavern table
Greek meze appetizers on a wooden tavern table

For hot dishes people order moussaka, souvlaki and kleftiko, and by the sea grilled octopus and squid. Gyros in pita comes from street food counters, and the same places sell spanakopita for breakfast, a flaky pastry pie with spinach and feta.

Look for local cooking in tavernas, small family run restaurants. A psarotaverna is a fish restaurant, and near a port its octopus and squid are fresher. On the islands in summer the bill is higher than on the mainland in winter.

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Airports, ferries and rental cars

The country's main gateway is Athens airport. Metro line 3 gets you from there to Syntagma Square in about forty minutes, but it does not run at night; the X95 bus runs around the clock, and taxis charge a fixed fare. Crete, Rhodes, Kos and Santorini are easy to reach on a direct flight.

Port of Piraeus from above, ferries at the quays
Port of Piraeus from above, ferries at the quays. Photo: Apaleutos25 (Giorgos Voudouris), CC BY-SA

Ferries run between the islands, and to islands without an airport there is no other way. From Athens they leave from three different ports, Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio, so check the port on your ticket carefully. For an overnight crossing take a cabin. In summer sailings are sometimes halted because of the meltemi, a strong northerly wind, so do not put a ferry and your flight home on the same day.

Buses on the islands follow the coast and hardly go inland, so you need a car for beaches and mountain villages. To rent one you need a license held for at least a year and a bank card in the driver's name; with a license issued outside the EU you also need an international driving permit. An airport transfer is convenient at night, with children and with suitcases.

Getting around Greece: how to travel
RouteHow to travelWhat to keep in mind
From Athens airport to the center by dayMetro line 3 to Syntagma SquareAbout 40 minutes; the metro does not run at night
From Athens airport to the center at nightThe X95 bus or a taxi at a fixed fareThe bus runs around the clock and takes about 60 minutes to Syntagma Square
From Athens airport to the port of PiraeusThe X96 busThe ride takes about 90 minutes; metro line 3 also goes as far as Piraeus
To Crete, Rhodes, Kos and SantoriniDirect flightSmall islands work better as the second stage, after a big island with a direct flight
Between the islandsFerryFrom Athens the ferries leave from three ports, Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio; for an overnight crossing take a cabin
To beaches and mountain villages on the islandsRental carBuses follow the coast and hardly go inland; you need a license held for at least a year
From Athens to MeteoraBus or trainThe bus takes about four and a half hours, the train about five each way; a day tour takes the timetable off your hands

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Best time to go and weather

Swimming in Greece is comfortable from mid May through October. Around Crete, Rhodes and Halkidiki the water warms up earlier than in the Cyclades. The most even months are June and September: the sea is warm and there are fewer people on the beaches. July and August are the hottest and the most crowded, and in the Aegean the meltemi then blows almost every day: windsurfers need it, while in sheltered coves it almost dies down.

Turquoise Balos Lagoon with a sandy spit on Crete
Turquoise Balos Lagoon with a sandy spit on Crete. Photo: dronepicr, CC BY

In October the sea around Crete and Rhodes stays warm, and people swim there until the end of the month, while the rains begin in the north and on the Ionian Islands.

For Athens the best months are April, May, September and October. Winter in Greece is the season of the mainland: the Acropolis and the museums without lines, cheaper hotels, snow in the mountains, and skiing on Parnassus near Arachova. The resort villages on the islands are closed in winter, and there are noticeably fewer ferries.

Greece by season: sea, weather and crowds
Time of yearSea and weatherWhat to keep in mind
April and MayThe best months for AthensHotels on the islands cost noticeably less than in August
Mid MayThe start of the swimming seasonAround Crete, Rhodes and Halkidiki the water warms up earlier than in the Cyclades
June and SeptemberThe sea is warm and there are fewer people on the beachesThe most even months for a vacation by the sea
July and AugustThe hottest and most crowded monthsIn the Aegean the meltemi blows almost every day, and ferry sailings are sometimes halted
OctoberAround Crete and Rhodes the sea stays warm until the end of the monthThe rains begin in the north and on the Ionian Islands
WinterThe season of the mainland: snow in the mountains, skiing on ParnassusThe Acropolis and the museums without lines; the resort villages on the islands are closed, and there are noticeably fewer ferries

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

There are no daily rates here. The total for a trip to Greece is made up of flights, accommodation, ferries or a rental car, food and admissions. Accommodation changes the most: it peaks in August, hotels on the islands cost noticeably less in April, May and October, and in Athens the lowest prices hold from November to March.

Where saving really makes a difference: a trip at the start or the end of the season, a taverna away from the main tourist streets, the set lunch menu instead of dinner, gyros and spanakopita from a street food counter. It is often cheaper to rent a car on the island itself than to bring one over by ferry: a car on board is charged separately.

You work out your own total in the calculator: it separates accommodation, food, transport, admissions, getting there and a reserve.

Calculate a travel budget for Greece

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Routes: Athens, the mainland and the islands

Athens fits into a short itinerary because the main antiquities stand close to one another in the center. In one day you can walk the loop: the Acropolis, the Temple of Zeus, Syntagma Square, Plaka, both agoras and sunset on Lycabettus Hill. From Athens people go to Delphi, Olympia, Nafplio and Corinth for a day or with one overnight stay.

Acropolis of Lindos on a hill above the white town
Acropolis of Lindos on a hill above the white town

On the islands the rule of bases applies. A compact island like Santorini or Mykonos needs three or four days; for Crete or Rhodes allow at least a week. A week on Crete is split between two bases, in the west and in the center, so that you are not behind the wheel every day.

If several islands are in the plan, do not change them too often: every move eats a whole day. Small islands work better as the second stage, after a big island with a direct flight, and between the last ferry and the flight home leave a margin of one or two days.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: documents, rules, connectivity, insurance

Greece is part of the Schengen Area. EU citizens do not need a visa; a passport or a national ID card is enough. Everyone else should check whether their country has visa free travel to the Schengen Area. The Entry/Exit System, EES, operates at the border, and travelers from third countries have their fingerprints and a photo taken, so allow more time for the checks.

Monasteries only admit visitors in modest clothing: shoulders and knees covered, and women need a skirt below the knee. In Athens watch your bags on the metro at the Acropolis, Syntagma and Monastiraki stations and in the crowd by the Parthenon: pickpockets work there. There is almost no shade on the Acropolis, and the marble is polished smooth and slippery, so bring comfortable shoes, water and a hat.

Check the roaming terms for Greece with your own provider before the trip. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and the ferry timetable. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read what exactly it covers.

Build a packing list for the Greece trip

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Common questions about a trip to Greece