
Which side of Crete is better: four coasts and travel times
Crete is very long, and the side you choose determines a good half of your vacation. On one trip you will see either Chania and Balos, or Heraklion and Lasithi, but not everything at once.
The short answer: the best beaches are in the west, nightlife and all-inclusive hotels are in the northeast, a convenient base for excursions is in the northwest, and empty coves are in the east. Below we break down the four coasts one by one, travel times between them, and accommodation by town.
The island welcomes tourists from April through October, and in summer the difference between coasts is especially noticeable. For each coast we have gathered distances, driving routes, beaches, and hotels so you can pick a side without unnecessary transfers.
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Where to stay on Crete: the short answer
💡 In short:
- Best beaches: the west of the island, from Balos to Elafonisi.
- Nightlife and all-inclusive hotels: the northeast around Malia.
- Base for longer excursions: the northwest, Chania and Rethymno.
- Prices and opening hours: as of 09/2026, verified on the official website of the Greek Ministry of Culture.

Map: sides and coasts of Crete
There are many definitions online, and plenty of confusion with them. Some divide the island into west and east, others into north and south. Crete is elongated, so below we will talk about four coasts: northwest, northeast, southwest, and southeast. This makes it easier to match both beaches and the drive from the airport to a coast.
© European Space Agency · CC BYPhoto: European Space Agency, CC BY, Wikimedia CommonsWhich side of Crete to choose
Crete has no single best side. It all depends on what you are looking for: long sandy beaches, quiet coves, mountains, or bars until dawn. But if you choose honestly, the picture looks like this.
- Best starting point for excursions: the northwest coast.
- Best beaches: the western side of the island.
- Nightlife: the northeast coast.
- All-inclusive vacations: the northeast coast.
- Getting away from the crowds: the east coast.
Below we show what each coast looks like, so you can choose calmly and without rushing.
Where to stay on Crete
If you liked the northwest, make your base in Chania or Rethymno. Chania suits those who want a town with character and the old port within walking distance of the hotel. Rethymno is more convenient for the beach: a long stretch of sand starts right after the old town, and from here the drive to Chania and Heraklion is roughly the same.
In the northeast the choice is simple. Malia works if you want a beach and parties, while Sitia is cheaper and closer to local life. In the southwest there is Paleochora: mountains, ruins, and a big beach nearby, but every trip here is long because the place is remote. Plakias also works in the southwest; families and sun lovers enjoy it.
Almost every small town has a beach, and the sea view costs you nothing. We will talk about accommodation by town later in separate sections.

East or west, north or south: how to choose
Island size and driving
Crete stretches 260 km from east to west, and at its widest point it spans 60 km from north to south (as of 09/2026, official tourism portal of Greece). Near Ierapetra the island narrows to 12 km, so from a northern town to a southern beach you can drive in about half an hour on the map.

Calculate driving times on the map without stops (as of 09/2026, routes on the map):
Route | Driving time |
|---|---|
Heraklion and Rethymno | 1 hr 15 min |
Rethymno and Chania | 1 hr 10 min |
Chania and Paleochora | 1 hr 30 min |
Paleochora and Chora Sfakion | 2 hr 30 min |
Rethymno and Chora Sfakion | 1 hr 20 min |
Heraklion and Ierapetra | 1 hr 30 min |
The mountain range running through the middle of the island is not an obstacle: you can get from north to south in a single drive. But if you are staying in the far east, day trips to the western sights are no longer realistic.
North or south Crete
Since you can drive between the coasts in a day, this choice is more about the vibe. Think about which pace suits you better.
The north coast is home to the major cities: Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion, and Agios Nikolaos. These are resorts with beaches, bars, water sports, and full infrastructure. Quiet spots do exist, such as Mochlos or Panormos, but you will still be surrounded by busy towns.
The south coast is calmer and smaller in scale. Here you will find Plakias and Myrtos, villages without large hotels. Some places are reachable only by water, like Loutro. There are more mountains between the points. The atmosphere is relaxed, all the way to the hippie mood of Matala beach.
East or west Crete
The island is long, so on a single excursion you will see only a small part. The choice between east and west comes down to what exactly you want to see.
The western side is where the most famous sights are concentrated: Balos Lagoon with its incredible shades of water, Elafonisi beach with pink sand, the city of Chania, and Samaria Gorge. On the eastern side, the highlights are the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, the ruins of the Minoan palaces at Knossos, Malia, and Zakros, the island fortress of Spinalonga, and the Cave of Zeus with its stalactites.
The center of the island also has plenty to see: Matala beach with its hippie culture, the ruins of the palace at Phaistos in the south, Preveli beach in the mountains, and Arkadi Monastery.

Our recommendation: two bases or a road trip
If you are going to Crete for more than a week and want to see a lot, book at least two places to stay: half the time on the eastern side, half on the western side. That way you will not spend half a day on the road.
The second option is a road trip with a suitcase in the trunk: more moving around, but you will see more and waste less time behind the wheel.
AIIllustrative image: AI-generatedRenting a car in Crete: what to keep in mind
Without a car, part of the island will be closed off to you. Buses connect the towns, but schedules to gorges and remote beaches are sparse, and there is often only one return trip per day.
- Get a car with enough power: mountain roads are full of switchbacks.
- Choose a rate with zero-deductible insurance, it gives you more peace of mind on narrow roads.
- Book in advance, in summer available cars are scarce.
- Check parking: hotels in the old centers of Chania and Rethymno often have no space of their own.
Local rental companies like Rental Center Crete include zero-deductible insurance in the rate, but still read the contract. It is easier to compare conditions across rental companies on DiscoverCars, where you can see the final price and coverage.
Northwest coast: Balos and Falassarna
The northwest is the best place to start. From here you can easily reach Balos Lagoon, Falassarna, and Chania, and return to your hotel in the evening without a long drive.
© dronepicr · CC BYPhoto: dronepicr, CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), Wikimedia CommonsWhat to see in the northwest:
- Balos Lagoon with shallow turquoise water.
- Falassarna beach, away from the main tourist flows.
- The Botanical Garden of Crete.
- The historic center of Chania.
- The Akrotiri peninsula: Marathi beach, family-friendly, and Seitan Limania with its rugged landscape.
- Theriso Gorge.
Balos is first on most travelers' itineraries, and for good reason: the water there is light and there is almost no depth. Falassarna is longer and calmer, so people come here when they just want to lie on the sand without the crowds.
Chania: old town and Venetian harbor
Chania has character: a Venetian harbor, narrow streets in the old town, and a lighthouse visible from the waterfront. For many travelers, it is the most atmospheric base on the western side of the island.
© dronepicr · CC BYPhoto: dronepicr, CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), Wikimedia CommonsAccommodation options in Chania:
- Luxury: Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa, Casa Delfino rates on Trip.com.
- Boutique hotel: Residenza Vranas with panoramic city views.
- Historic atmosphere and sea views: Domus Renier.
- Apartments: Semeli Studios near the beach.
- For families: Palazzo Duca with spacious suites for four.
All of these are steps from the old port, so your evening stroll starts right from the hotel. If you need a pool and parking, look at hotels near the beach area of Chania, where the selection is wider.
Rethymno: a long beach and an old town
Rethymno is chosen by those who want a beach nearby and a central base for day trips. Hotels are located either in the old center without their own parking spot, or right on the shore.
© Lapplaender · CC BY-SAPhoto: Lapplaender, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/de/deed.en), Wikimedia Commons- Apartments in the old town: Sea Front Studios old town, small lodging with a terrace. The catch: parking is a 10-minute walk from the apartments (according to the map).
- Apartments by the sea: Golden Coast Seaside Apartments 3 km from the center (distance according to the map).
- Boutique hotel: Leo Hotel in a historic 15th-century Venetian house.
- Luxury: Rimondi Boutique Hotel, a small hotel in the center with a pool and five-star-level amenities. Rimondi prices on Trip.com.
The long sandy beach stretches east from the old town, so a room by the sea here really does mean the beach right under your windows. For evening strolls, you'll have the old town with its Venetian loggia and narrow lanes.
Northeast coast: Heraklion, Knossos and Malia
The northeast is packed with more day trips than any other coast. Here you can easily combine the beach in the morning and ruins after lunch, because the sites are a very short drive apart.
© logopop · CC BY-SAPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0), Wikimedia CommonsWhat to see on the northeast:
- Heraklion and its Archaeological Museum.
- The Palace of Knossos.
- Spinalonga Island.
- The quiet village of Mochlos.
- Cretaquarium.
- Voulisma Beach.
- Richtis Gorge.
The main attraction on this coast comes at a price. A ticket to Knossos costs 20 €, reduced 10 € (as of 09/2026, Greek Ministry of Culture). Buy your ticket online and arrive at opening time: by midday a line forms at the entrance.
Where to stay in Heraklion
Heraklion has lodging both in the old town without parking and on the shore. Choose based on what matters more to you: evening life in the center or a morning swim.
- Apartments: Dio Downtown Boutique Apartment near the Venetian fortress.
- Hostel: So Young Hostel in the center, a 4-minute walk from the museum (according to the map).
- Boutique hotel: Veneziano Boutique Hotel in a historic building.
- Luxury: GDM Megaron in a historic building overlooking the old port. GDM Megaron prices on Trip.com.
© C messier · CC BY-SAPhoto: C messier, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0), Wikimedia CommonsIf you want the beach under your windows, look at the Amoudara area west of the center: lodging there sits right at the water's edge, and you can reach the museums in ten minutes.
Malia and Mochlos: nightlife and quiet coves
In Malia, sandy beaches alternate with rocky stretches, and this is also where the island's eastern nightlife is concentrated. For lovers of quiet, this is not the best choice, but for club-focused vacations the place is ideal.
© Cayambe · CC BY-SAPhoto: Cayambe, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0), Wikimedia CommonsLodging options in Malia:
- Budget resort: Yiannis Manos Hotel Resort with a pool and a convenient location, Yiannis Manos prices on Trip.com.
- Aparthotels: Pyrgos Beach Hotel Apartments with sea views, a pool and quiet, a 5-minute walk from the waterfront (according to the map).
- Boutique hotel: Sunshine Boutique Hotel with a bar, pool and warm interiors.
- Luxury: Ammos Beach Hotel right on the beach, in white and wood.
- The catch: at night the center of Malia is noisy, this is the main club district of the east.
Mochlos looks like the complete opposite. The village is tiny, sits across from a small island with Minoan ruins, and has no big chains or noisy hotels. Instead, the tavernas cook with a sea view.
- The catch: the village has only one mini-market, so for two nights or more it's better to stock up on groceries in advance.
Tours and activities on Crete
Crete has more than just beaches. Here are activities worth planning ahead and easy to fit into one day of your itinerary.
- Boat to Balos Lagoon.
- Cooking class.
- Beginner diving course.
- Samaria Gorge hike.
You can compare options and book a spot on GetYourGuide. Spots for the Balos boat and Samaria sell out quickly in summer, so book ahead.
Southwest coast: Elafonisi and Samaria
Crete's southwest remains wild. You drive a long time between points, but the beaches here are the best on the island, and they're worth getting up early for.
© dronepicr · CC BYPhoto: dronepicr, CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), Wikimedia CommonsWhat to see on the southwest:
- Elafonisi Beach with its pink sand.
- Samaria Gorge and the hike through it.
- Sougia, a wild beach between the mountains.
- Chrysoskalitissa Monastery with its legend of gold.
- The white village of Loutro, reached on foot or by water.
- Preveli Beach between the mountains.
- Triopetra Beach with its rock formations.
The Samaria Gorge is open from May 1 to October 31, entry from 7:00, last entry at 13:00. Opening hours verified on 12.09.2026 on the official website (as of 09/2026, official gorge website). The route is long, so bring water and closed-toe shoes.
To get from one place to another, you either return to the north coast and then head down south, or you use a boat. Allow more time for transfers than the map shows.
Where to stay in Paleochora
Paleochora combines mountains, beaches and a good atmosphere, and it sits away from the crowds: you drive there on the other side of the mountain range. Accommodation here is mostly apartments.
- Boutique hotel and apartments: Blue Horizon with direct beach access, Blue Horizon prices on Trip.com.
- Apartments: Art Apartment about 150 m from the beach (according to the map).
- Large apartments: Aristea Apartments above the town, with panoramic views.
- Beachfront apartments: Paleochora Apartments a few steps from the water.
© Zde · CC BY-SAPhoto: Zde, CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0), Wikimedia CommonsSoutheast coast: Myrtos and Xerokambos
We recommend this coast to those who are tired of crowded resorts. Bare mountains, nearly empty beaches and small villages give you a full reset.

What to see in the southeast:
- Chrissi Island near Ierapetra.
- The colorful villages of Myrtos and Makry Gialos.
- Mountain scenery.
- Xerokambos with its deserted beach.
- Zakros with its gorge, beach and ruins.
Zakros is better known than Xerokambos: it has the ruins of one of the largest Minoan palaces, and a popular trail starts at the end of the Gorge of the Dead. Xerokambos is rarely mentioned, although its bare mountains drop straight into turquoise water, and its rocky coves deserve a day of their own. There are no large resorts here, only small apartments and guesthouses.
Where to stay in Myrtos and Xerokambos
Myrtos sits on the south coast, far from tourist routes. Small streets, white houses, bright decor and a waterfront make it a good place for a break. You will hardly want to leave. Xerokambos lies far from Myrtos, so the accommodation below is near Xerokambos and Zakros.

- Akti Apartments sit opposite the Xerokambos beach.
- Natica Mare Villas are higher up, with open views over Xerokambos and a large terrace, Natica Mare prices on Trip.com.
- Lithos Traditional Guest Houses are further from the beach, but full of character.
- In Kato Zakros there is accommodation right by the water.
During the day there is almost no one here, so the beach will be almost yours alone. Arrive before dark: the road winds through hairpin turns at night.
Chania, Rethymno, or Heraklion: what to choose
We hear this question most often, so we'll answer it directly, without long introductions.
If you need easy beach access, choose Rethymno: the sandy strip starts right behind the old town. If a central location for day trips matters more, also go with Rethymno. If you want a city with character, a Venetian harbor, and more atmosphere, Chania is your pick.
Heraklion and Chania are hard to compare, and there's no clear winner here. Heraklion is big: shops, the main museums, the port, and the airport are all close by. Chania is smaller, but its old center is cozier, and in the evening you can stroll along the waterfront by the lighthouse. Our choice is Chania.
City | Beach | Day trips | Character |
|---|---|---|---|
Chania | yes, but not by the old town | convenient for the west of the island | old harbor and narrow streets |
Rethymno | long sandy beach behind the old town | equally convenient for west and east | compact old center |
Heraklion | beach in the Amoudara area | airport and museums nearby | big city with a port |
The table shows the main point: Rethymno wins on versatility, Chania on atmosphere, Heraklion on logistics. If you land late in the evening and want to head out on a day trip in the morning, go with Heraklion. If an evening promenade by the water matters to you, Chania or Rethymno will suit you better.

The best hotel and the best beaches in Crete
Honestly, you can't pick a single best hotel in Crete. Everyone has their own priorities: interior, view from the window, room size, restaurant, beach access. We'll name two options that cover different needs.
- Resort: Royal Marmin Bay Boutique & Art Hotel in Elounda, north of Agios Nikolaos, with its own beach, pools, and a calm atmosphere.
- Boutique: Residenza Vranas in Chania, with design and panoramic views.
Among the beaches, our favorites are on the west side of the island. Balos Lagoon wins you over with its shades of water, Elafonisi with its pink sand, and Falassarna with its long stretch where there's enough room even in high season. In summer, get there at opening time; by midday the entrance gets crowded.
- Who it's for: those looking for a beach without crowds and willing to get up early.
- Not for: those who want to do everything on foot; the drives here are long.
- The catch: book accommodation on the west side well in advance; in summer there are few available options.
The two hotels above are in different parts of the island, so choose not by stars but by side: Elounda is convenient for eastern day trips, Chania for western beaches.
If you're planning your route in advance, take another look at the island map: it makes it easier to spread out the drives by day and avoid racking up extra kilometers.
You can pick a hotel for the right side of the island directly in the search below.
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⁉️🤔 Frequently asked questions
Which side of Crete is better for a first visit?
The northwest. From there you can easily reach Chania, Balos, and Falassarna, and the airport in Heraklion connects the island with Europe. If you're going for two weeks, add a second base in the east and see Knossos and Spinalonga.
Where are the best beaches in Crete?
On the west side. Elafonisi with its pink sand, Balos Lagoon, and Falassarna are considered the best on the island. The east also has good spots, but it's windier there, so compare the forecast and pick the coast based on the weather.
Do you need a car in Crete?
Not for the cities, but yes for the beaches and gorges. Buses run between the major towns, but you can't get to Xerokambos, Sougia, or Triopetra without a car. Get a car with enough power and a rate that includes insurance with no deductible.
How much time do you need for Crete?
At least a week, ideally two. In a week you can comfortably see one coast without rushing. In two weeks, add a second base: that way you'll see the west with Balos, the east with Knossos, and the south with Paleochora.
When is the best time to go to Crete?
From May to October. Swimming is comfortable from June, and in July and August the south coast is hot and windy. In May and September the beaches are less crowded, the water is warm, and the line at Knossos is shorter.
In short: what's worth booking
Crete is big, and the winner is the one who decides where to stay in advance. If you have a week, pick one base in the northwest, in Chania or Rethymno. If you have two weeks, split the trip between the west and the east.
A quick selection matrix:
- Want beach and parties: Malia.
- Want a city with character: Chania.
- Traveling with family: Rethymno or Plakias.
- Looking for quiet: Paleochora, Mochlos, or Xerokambos.
- Love ruins and museums: Heraklion.


