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Budapest: the guide for planning it yourself

Budapest: the guide for planning it yourself

The Danube splits Budapest in two. On the west bank lies hilly Buda with its castle and panoramas, on the east bank flat Pest with the Parliament, the grand avenues and most of the hotels. The center is compact, but crossing between the banks takes time, so you build a day here around the banks, not around a list of sights. One thing sets the city apart, and that is its thermal baths: they are open all year and easily take up half a day. This page is meant as the overview you build your own trip from. Each section says in a few sentences what matters and points on to our detailed articles. We deliberately leave prices out: bath tickets and hotel rates change too fast for an overview page to carry them honestly. What you get instead is a calculator where you work out your own total.

The highlights and how to arrange them

The sights of Budapest are easiest to sort by riverbank. Buda holds the Castle District with the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and Fisherman's Bastion. On the Pest side stand the Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica with its lookout terrace at the dome, the Great Synagogue on Dohány Street, and Andrássy Avenue with the Hungarian State Opera.

Buda Castle on a hill above the Danube
Buda Castle on a hill above the Danube. Photo: Jakub Hałun, CC BY-SA

Andrássy Avenue leads out to Heroes' Square, and behind it City Park, Városliget, begins: Vajdahunyad Castle, the zoo and the Széchenyi Baths sit side by side there, so it makes sense to cover this cluster in a single day. In the middle of the Danube lies Margaret Island, a green park with a musical fountain. The embankment with the memorial “Shoes on the Danube Bank”, the Chain Bridge and Gellért Hill can all be seen without a ticket.

Two rules save the most time. Many museums are closed on Mondays, among them the Hungarian National Museum and the House of Terror. And the terraces of Fisherman's Bastion, the castle courtyards and the embankment are free, so paid admissions alternate well with places that need no ticket.

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Neighborhoods and where to stay

In Budapest the district matters more than the hotel category. For a first visit the most convenient choice is Belváros-Lipótváros, District V on the Pest side: you walk to the Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica and the embankment, but hotels here are the most expensive in the city. Terézváros, District VI, means Andrássy Avenue and the opera: prices are lower, and you can still walk to the center.

Visitors at the Mazel Tov ruin bar among greenery
Visitors at the Mazel Tov ruin bar among greenery. Photo: Nan Palmero from San Antonio, TX, USA, CC BY

Erzsébetváros, District VII, is the historic Jewish Quarter and the ruin bars. People choose it for the nightlife, and the only quiet sleep there is in rooms facing the courtyard. Várkerület, District I, lies in Buda by the castle: quiet and a panorama of Pest, but you will have to cross the bridge to get to the bars. Újlipótváros, District XIII, suits families: it is calmer and cheaper than the center, and Margaret Island is within walking distance.

At night it is better to stay away from the parts of Districts VIII and X that lie far from the tourist streets.

Budapest districts: which one suits whom
DistrictWho it suitsWhat to keep in mind
Belváros-Lipótváros, District VA first visit: you walk to the Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica and the embankmentHotels here are the most expensive in the city
Terézváros, District VIShopping, the opera and strolls along Andrássy AvenuePrices are lower than in District V, which is a 15-20 minute walk away
Erzsébetváros, District VIINightlife, ruin bars and the historic Jewish QuarterThe only quiet sleep is in rooms facing the courtyard
Várkerület, District IQuiet, history and a panorama of Pest from the Buda sideYou will have to cross the bridge to get to the bars; the district sits on a hill
Újlipótváros, District XIIIFamilies with children: Margaret Island is next doorCalmer and cheaper than the center; the Parliament is about half an hour on foot or a few tram stops away

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Hotels: what to watch for in Budapest

First pick your side of the river and check how far the walk to the metro is, not just to the Danube. In historic buildings parking is usually paid and spaces are few, and breakfast is not included in every rate: clear up both before you book.

The word “spa” in a hotel description can mean different things. Only some hotels have thermal water of their own, the rest offer a heated pool with a sauna, and on a booking listing the difference is almost impossible to see. A room with windows onto the Danube is booked as a separate category, because standard rooms in the same hotels often face the courtyard. From the Pest embankment you see the Castle District, and from the Buda side your window frames the Parliament.

Book ahead. In the shoulder season two to three months is enough, and for July and August allow more.

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Tours and skip the line tickets

You can only get inside the Parliament on a tour, and there is no walk-in entry. Tickets are sold for a specific time and in limited numbers, so in high season book them before your trip. Every visitor needs a passport or ID card. It is also worth getting your ticket for the Széchenyi Baths in advance: in season a line builds up at the ticket office.

Interior of the Hungarian Parliament Assembly Hall
Interior of the Hungarian Parliament Assembly Hall. Photo: Nan Palmero from San Antonio, TX, USA, CC BY

The Great Synagogue is visited on a guided tour or with an audio guide, and it is closed on Saturdays. The Budapest Card combines public transport with museum admission and only pays off with a packed program, so run through your own list first. The evening is a good time for a boat trip on the Danube.

If you have a day to spare, the closest outing is Szentendre with Visegrád in the Danube Bend. Day trips by train go to Eger with its castle and wine cellars and to Esztergom with its basilica, and a longer day leaves you Lake Balaton, the thermal lake at Hévíz and Bratislava.

Tickets in Budapest: how to get in and what to keep in mind
SightHow to get inWhat to keep in mind
ParliamentOnly on a tour, with a guide or an audio guide; ticket for a specific timeThe tour takes about 45 minutes including the security check at the entrance; everyone needs a passport or ID card
Széchenyi BathsBest to get your ticket in advanceThis is the city's most popular bath, and in season there is a line at the ticket office; open all year
Great SynagogueOn a guided tour or with an audio guideClosed on Saturdays; on other days come at opening time, while there are fewer groups
St. Stephen's BasilicaLookout terrace at the domeGo up in the morning, when the line is shorter; you may be turned away in shorts or with bare shoulders
Budapest CardCombines public transport with museum admissionOnly pays off with a packed program, so run through your own list first
Boat trip on the DanubeFits well into the eveningThe open deck is better for photos, the covered one keeps the rain off

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Food: what to try and where not to overpay

The basic set of local dishes is short. Lángos is a fried flatbread made of potato dough, topped with garlic, sour cream and cheese. Gulyás in Hungary is not a stew but a thick soup with beef, potatoes and paprika.

Thick goulash soup with paprika in a cauldron
Thick goulash soup with paprika in a cauldron. Photo: Lily15, CC BY-SA

The cheapest place to eat is at the markets, and the same dishes cost noticeably more in the tourist center. At the Central Market Hall the ground floor is given over to groceries, while upstairs they sell souvenirs and the food costs more than downstairs. Come in the morning, and note that the market is closed on Sundays. At midday many places serve a set lunch menu that is cheaper than dinner. In the evening look for small restaurants in the side streets near the Jewish Quarter, not on Váci Street.

Check the bill before you pay. Often the service charge is already there as a separate line, service fee, and then no tip is needed. If there is no charge, tell the waiter the amount out loud or hand the money over directly: leaving it on the table is not the custom here.

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Transport and getting in from the airport

Budapest has one international airport, named after Franz Liszt, and transport into the city leaves from Terminal 2. The direct 100E express bus runs without a change to Deák Ferenc tér, operates around the clock and takes about forty minutes. It needs a separate airport ticket, and city passes are not valid on it. The cheaper way is the 200E bus to Kőbánya-Kispest station and on by metro line M3, but the trip takes about an hour.

Bus 100E at Budapest Airport terminal
Bus 100E at Budapest Airport terminal. Photo: Salsim5774, CC BY-SA

Take a taxi only from the official rank: licensed cabs are yellow and charge by the meter. At night, with children or with a lot of luggage, a transfer booked in advance at a fixed price is more convenient.

In the city the metro, trams and buses form a single network. A single ticket is valid for one ride without a change, except for transfers inside the metro, so it is simpler to buy a pass for one day or for three days. You do not need a car in the center: parking is paid and the streets are narrow.

Getting around Budapest: what to take
RouteWhat to takeWhat to keep in mind
From the airport to the center without a change100E express bus to Deák Ferenc térAbout 40 minutes, around the clock; every 6-10 minutes by day, every 30-40 at night; needs a separate airport ticket
From the airport to the center the cheapest way200E bus to Kőbánya-Kispest station and on by metro line M3About an hour with a change; you need a ticket for each leg; awkward with suitcases and children
From the airport to your addressTaxi from the official rankRoughly half an hour; licensed cabs are yellow and charge by the meter; noticeably more expensive than the bus
Arriving at night, with children or with a lot of luggageTransfer booked in advanceThe price is fixed, and the driver waits in the arrivals hall and takes you to the hotel
Trips within the cityMetro, trams and busesA single network; a single ticket is valid without a change, so a pass for one day or for three days is simpler
Trips out of the cityCarYou do not need one in the center: parking is paid and the streets are narrow

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Best time to go and weather

The best window is late April, May, September and October: the weather is comfortable for long walks, there are noticeably fewer people, and hotels are cheaper than in summer.

Baroque wing and tower of Vajdahunyad Castle in autumn
Baroque wing and tower of Vajdahunyad Castle in autumn. Photo: Jorge Franganillo, CC BY

July and August are the peak: heat, lines for the baths and the highest nightly rates. In August the Sziget festival takes place on Óbuda Island, and hotels in the center get more expensive for those dates. If your vacation falls in summer, do your walking in the morning and evening and leave the middle of the day for baths and museums.

February, early March and November are the cheapest and quietest months, but chilly. In return, the thermal baths are open all year, and bathing outdoors in the cold becomes an experience of its own. From mid-November to the first days of January the Christmas markets are open, the main ones on Vörösmarty Square and by St. Stephen's Basilica.

Budapest by season: weather, crowds and what to keep in mind
Time of yearWeather and crowdsWhat to keep in mind
Late April and MayWarm, moderate crowds, hotels cheaper than in summerThe time for walks around Buda and for terraces; from May there are afternoon thunderstorms, so bring a light rain jacket
July and AugustHeat, lines for the baths and the highest nightly ratesWalk in the morning and evening, leave the middle of the day for baths and museums; the Sziget festival takes place in August
September and OctoberSeptember is warm, October mild; fewer people than in summerGolden fall colors in the parks and the best light for photos; it rains more often in October
NovemberChilly and gray, few tourists, low pricesThe Christmas markets open from the middle of the month; the baths are open all year
DecemberAround freezing, lots of people, prices above averageChristmas markets; come on a weekday evening, since they are packed on weekends
January and FebruaryAround freezing or chilly, the fewest tourists, the lowest pricesEmpty museums and outdoor bathing; it gets dark early

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

We are not writing daily rates here. Most of the money goes to the hotel, where season and location decide the price, to dinner in the tourist center and to paid admissions. The thermal baths and the Parliament tour push a daily budget up the most, while public transport barely affects it.

Where saving actually gets you something. Do not make every day equally expensive: a walk through the Castle District and along the Danube costs next to nothing, and the baths and a good dinner can go on a different day. Have the set lunch menu at midday, a couple of blocks away from the main sights. At a card terminal and at an ATM, choose to be charged in forints: the rate is worse when the bank on the spot does the conversion.

You work out your own total in the calculator. It separates accommodation, food, local transport, admissions, travel there and a reserve, so you can see which item is pushing the total up.

Calculate a travel budget for Budapest

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Routes for one, three and five days

The main rule for a single day: cross the Danube no more than twice. Give the morning to the hill in Buda, where Matthias Church, Fisherman's Bastion and the Royal Palace stand close together. After lunch move over to Pest, to the Parliament and Heroes' Square, and spend the evening at a bath or on the embankment.

Heroes' Square with the Millennium Column and colonnades
Heroes' Square with the Millennium Column and colonnades. Photo: Godot13, CC BY

In three days you can cover both banks without rushing. Day one, the Castle District: Matthias Church, Fisherman's Bastion and the Royal Palace. Day two: Heroes' Square, City Park with Vajdahunyad Castle and the Széchenyi Baths, Andrássy Avenue and the House of Terror. Day three: the Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica, the Great Synagogue, the memorial on the embankment and Gellért Hill.

Five days make room for what does not fit into a short trip: the Buda Hills with the Elizabeth Lookout, Margaret Island, the zoo, a second bath and a separate day out of the city.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: money, baths, connectivity

Cards are accepted almost everywhere, and you need cash in forints only at the market, if at all. Euros are not accepted on public transport. Validate a paper ticket before you ride: inspectors check often, and the fine is issued on the spot. The center is safe if you behave as you would in any big city: keep an eye on your things on the tram and do not leave your bag unattended on a terrace.

Széchenyi Thermal Bath with pool and visitors
Széchenyi Thermal Bath with pool and visitors. Photo: Marc Ryckaert ( MJJR ), CC BY

Bring a swimsuit, a towel and flip-flops to the baths. They are quietest on weekday mornings and toward evening. At the Rudas Baths some days are set aside separately for men and for women, so check the schedule in advance. You may be turned away from the Great Synagogue and the basilica in shorts or with bare shoulders.

Check the roaming terms for Hungary with your own carrier before you travel. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and contact with the hotel. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read exactly what it covers.

Build a packing list for the Budapest trip

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Common questions about a trip to Budapest