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Paris: the guide for planning it yourself

Paris: the guide for planning it yourself

Paris only looks compact on the map. Most of the main sights really do stand in the center, within a couple of kilometers of each other, and they group well into walking blocks. But a ticket office line without a timed ticket eats up the morning, and Versailles and Disneyland lie outside the city and take a full day each. This page is meant as the overview you build your own trip from. Each section says in a few sentences what matters and points on to our detailed articles. We deliberately leave prices out: admission and hotel rates in Paris change too fast for an overview page to carry them honestly. What you get instead is a calculator where you work out your own total.

The highlights and how to arrange them

Four landmarks carry a first trip to Paris: the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame Cathedral on the Île de la Cité, the Arc de Triomphe at the end of the Champs-Élysées, and the hill of Montmartre with the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. Museums and grand buildings come on top: the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, the Orangerie in the Tuileries Garden, Les Invalides with Napoleon's tomb, the Panthéon and the Opéra Garnier.

Eiffel Tower above the Seine on a clear day
Eiffel Tower above the Seine on a clear day. Photo: Fred Romero from Paris, France, CC BY

In the center you can realistically cover several sights on foot in a day if you group them into blocks: the Louvre, the Tuileries Garden and Place de la Concorde; the Île de la Cité with the cathedral, Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie; the Latin Quarter with the Panthéon, the Sorbonne and the Luxembourg Gardens. Versailles and Disneyland sit outside the city, and each needs a day of its own.

Two rules save the most time. First: the big museums have a closing day, the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, the Musée d'Orsay and the Palace of Versailles on Mondays. Second: entry to Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Sacré-Cœur Basilica is free, and so are the Tuileries Garden and the Luxembourg Gardens, so paid time slots alternate well with places that need no ticket.

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Neighborhoods and where to stay

In Paris the neighborhood changes a trip more than the hotel category does. For a first visit, the 1st arrondissement with the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden and the Marais quarter both work: you walk to the main sights, but prices there are above average and rooms in the old buildings are often small. Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the quiet classic, with cafés and bookshops. The 7th arrondissement is calm, has the Eiffel Tower close by and is convenient with children.

Canal Saint-Martin with pedestrian bridges
Canal Saint-Martin with pedestrian bridges. Photo: JLPC, CC BY-SA

If price matters, look at the Latin Quarter, the 11th arrondissement and the 12th arrondissement with Bercy: it is cheaper there, and the metro gets you to the center quickly. Montmartre gives you character and a view, but you will have to climb the hill every day. Canal Saint-Martin lies off the tourist routes and shows everyday Paris.

As a base for the whole trip, it is better to avoid the surroundings of the Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est stations and the lower part of the 18th arrondissement near the Barbès-Rochechouart and La Chapelle stations. Hotels there are cheaper, but the trips to the sights are longer and the streets are less pleasant in the evening.

Paris neighborhoods: which one suits whom
NeighborhoodWho it suitsWhat to keep in mind
1st arrondissement and the MaraisA first visit: you walk to the main sightsPrices above average, rooms in the old buildings often small
Saint-Germain-des-PrésCouples and anyone after the quiet classic with cafés and bookshopsPrice level is high, and almost everything is expensive in the evening
7th arrondissementFamilies with children and anyone who wants the Eiffel Tower close byCalm, especially in the evening; rooms with a view of the tower cost more than standard ones
Latin QuarterA tight budget and a wish to stay close to the centerMany metro lines, the center is a couple of stops away
11th arrondissementAnyone who wants restaurants and bars close to the hotelThe area is lively in the evening; you take the metro to the center
12th arrondissement and BercyBudget-minded travelers and families20-25 minutes to the main sights by metro or RER
MontmartreRomance, character and a viewYou will have to climb the hill every day
Canal Saint-MartinAnyone who wants to see everyday ParisLies off the tourist routes

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Hotels: what to watch for in Paris

In Paris the star rating tells you less about a hotel than its location and guest reviews. Buildings here are often historic, so rooms are small and the layout cannot be changed. Check three things: whether there is air conditioning, because sleeping without it is hard in summer; which way the windows face, because quiet rooms usually look onto the courtyard; and how far the walk to the metro is.

Facade of the Regina hotel on Place des Pyramides in Paris
Facade of the Regina hotel on Place des Pyramides in Paris. Photo: Andrzej Otrębski, CC BY-SA

Demand in the city holds all year, and prices barely drop at the last minute. Book six to ten weeks ahead and look at nights from Monday to Thursday: they are often cheaper than weekends. A room with a view of the Eiffel Tower always costs more, and it is worth asking exactly which room category you can see it from.

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Tours and skip the line tickets

A timed ticket booked ahead pays off for the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, the Eiffel Tower, the Palace of Versailles and the Opéra Garnier. At the Louvre the slot only sets your entry time, and once inside you stay as long as you like. For the Eiffel Tower, arrive before your slot begins: there is still a security check ahead of the entrance. Tickets for the Catacombs and the towers of Notre-Dame Cathedral are sold online only, and you cannot buy them on site.

Cour Napoléon of the Louvre with the glass pyramid and tourists
Cour Napoléon of the Louvre with the glass pyramid and tourists. Photo: Maria Eklind, CC BY-SA

The Paris Museum Pass pays off if you visit three or more museums in three days, though you still have to reserve a time at the Louvre with it. A guided tour makes sense where all you get without explanation is the rooms themselves: at the Opéra Garnier it goes backstage, and at Les Invalides it helps you make sense of the dates and names.

Tickets in Paris: where you need an entry time and when it is closed
SightTicket and entryClosing day
The LouvreTimed ticket; the slot only sets your entry timeTuesday
Musée d'OrsayTimed ticketMonday
Eiffel TowerTimed ticket; arrive before your slot begins, there is a security check ahead of the entranceOpen daily
Palace of VersaillesEntry at a fixed time that you choose when buying the ticketMonday; the park and gardens are open daily
Opéra GarnierVisit ticket with a time slot, checked at the entranceUsually open daily; on performance days the visit is moved or canceled
CatacombsTickets online only, you cannot buy them on siteMonday
Notre-Dame CathedralEntry to the cathedral is free; tickets for the towers are sold online onlyThe cathedral is open daily

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Food: how to choose a place to eat in Paris

Near the Eiffel Tower, on the embankments by Notre-Dame Cathedral and in the middle of Montmartre you pay for the view and the foot traffic, not the cooking. Walk one street away from the square. Good signs: a short seasonal menu, a dish of the day, the plat du jour, and French being spoken at the tables around you. A menu with photos in five languages tells you the opposite.

Street market on Rue Mouffetard in Paris
Street market on Rue Mouffetard in Paris. Photo: David Monniaux, CC BY-SA

The best value meal is the set lunch, the formule du midi, at a bistro: the same dishes cost more in the evening. Classic restaurants open the dining room for dinner at around seven, and kitchens are closed between lunch and dinner. Do not seat yourself, wait to be shown to a table. A jug of tap water, une carafe d'eau, comes at no extra charge. Service is already included in the bill, and tipping is voluntary.

For dinner, good areas are the Marais and the Bastille district, where the choice is widest, Saint-Germain for traditional cooking, Montmartre late in the evening and Canal Saint-Martin for modern cooking. Bistro classics include beef bourguignon, onion soup and duck confit.

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Transport and getting in from the airport

There are two main airports: Charles de Gaulle and Orly. Some low cost airlines fly to Beauvais, which is a long way from the city, so check your arrival airport before you buy the flight. From Charles de Gaulle the RER B commuter train runs to the center: it stops at two airport stations, takes about half an hour and runs every ten to twenty minutes during the day. From Orly you take the automated Orlyval train and change to the RER B. The airport ticket is a separate one and costs more than a city ticket.

Art Nouveau entrance to the Paris Métro
Art Nouveau entrance to the Paris Métro

In the city the metro is the main way to get around. The network is dense, neighboring stations are often five minutes apart on foot, and the fare within Paris does not depend on distance. The metro runs from early morning until around one at night, and later on Fridays and Saturdays. Far from all stations have elevators, so with a suitcase expect stairs.

The last RER B train from the airport leaves shortly before midnight. After that you are left with a fixed fare taxi to the center or a transfer booked in advance, which is also the more convenient choice with children or a lot of luggage. A car in Paris itself is more of a burden because of traffic jams and parking, and renting one only pays off for trips out of the city.

Getting around Paris: what to take
RouteWhat to takeWhat to keep in mind
From Charles de Gaulle airport to the centerRER B commuter trainAbout half an hour, every 10-20 minutes during the day; you can board at two airport stations
From Orly airport to the centerAutomated Orlyval train and a change to the RER BThe change is at Antony station; the airport ticket is separate from a city ticket
Arriving late in the evening or at nightFixed fare taxi or a transfer booked in advanceThe last RER B from the airport leaves shortly before midnight; a transfer is easier with children and luggage
Trips within the cityMetroRuns until around one at night, later on Fridays and Saturdays; far from all stations have elevators
To VersaillesRER C commuter train to Versailles Château Rive Gauche stationFrom the station you walk to the palace through the center of Versailles
To DisneylandDirect RER A commuter train to the last stop, Marne-la-Vallée ChessyThe ride from the center takes about 40 minutes
Trips out of the cityRental carParis itself means traffic jams and parking, and you do not need a car for trips in the center

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Best time to go and weather

April, May, September and October are best for long walks: the weather is mild and the lines are shorter than in summer. Summer and the New Year holidays are high season, when hotels get more expensive and the lines grow.

Boulevard Saint-Michel in autumn in Paris
Boulevard Saint-Michel in autumn in Paris. Photo: besopha, CC BY-SA

November and February are the quietest months, with the fewest tourists, but it rains often, so bring a jacket and an umbrella. In winter the days are short, the gardens close earlier and some of the châteaux outside the city are closed for the off season. In return, the Christmas markets open in the second half of November and the department stores put up their holiday window displays. If you are coming for the sales, plan for January or late June.

Paris by season: weather, crowds and what to keep in mind
Time of yearWeather and crowdsWhat to keep in mind
April, May, September, OctoberMild weather, lines shorter than in summerThe best time for long walks
SummerHigh season: lines grow, hotels get more expensiveBook timed tickets ahead; check the hotel for air conditioning
November and FebruaryThe fewest tourists, but it rains oftenBring a jacket and an umbrella; the Christmas markets open in the second half of November
New Year holidaysHigh season, short daysGardens close earlier; most Christmas markets run until the end of December
JanuaryWinter: short days, some of the châteaux outside the city are closed for the off seasonThe month of the sales; the second round comes in late June

Twelve months compared: find the best time to go

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Budget: how to work out your own total

We are not writing daily rates here. The cost of a trip to Paris is made up of four parts: getting there, accommodation, museum tickets and food. Most of the money goes to accommodation and tickets, and travel and hotels get more expensive in high season and during school vacations. A number on an overview page would be either out of date or made up.

Where saving actually gets you something: a hotel on a metro line outside the center instead of an address by the Eiffel Tower, weekday nights, a set lunch at midday instead of an à la carte dinner, water from the city's free drinking fountains. Children get into the Louvre free, and Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and the city gardens need no ticket at all.

You work out your own total in the calculator. It separates accommodation, food, local transport, admissions, travel there and a reserve, so you can see which item is pushing the total up.

Calculate a travel budget for Paris

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Routes for one, three and five days

In one day you can walk Paris along a single line. The first option: from Notre-Dame Cathedral along the Seine embankment via the Sorbonne, the Luxembourg Gardens and the Montparnasse Tower to the Champ de Mars, the Eiffel Tower and the Trocadéro, about seven kilometers. The second is shorter: from the Louvre Pyramid through the Tuileries Garden, across Place de la Concorde and the Pont Alexandre III to the tower.

Place de la Concorde with obelisk, view from the Eiffel Tower
Place de la Concorde with obelisk, view from the Eiffel Tower. Photo: Cristian Bortes from Cluj-Napoca, Romania, CC BY

Three days is the number at which the essentials fit without rushing. Day one: the Opéra Garnier, Place Vendôme, the Tuileries Garden and an evening trip on the Seine. Day two: the Louvre, the Conciergerie, Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Marais. Day three: Les Invalides, the Panthéon, the Eiffel Tower and an evening in Montmartre.

Over five days the city divides up by area: the center, the Île de la Cité with the Latin Quarter, Montmartre, a museum day and a day of your choice. Put Versailles or Disneyland in place of one museum day, not on top of it.

Day planner: check what fits into one day

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Practical matters: safety, connectivity, insurance

Paris is safe on the whole, but pickpockets work the metro, crowded buses and the areas around the sights. Do not hold your phone in your hand near the train doors: it gets snatched at the moment the doors close. Buy passes only from machines and ticket offices, and keep your ticket until the end of the journey. Start any conversation with Bonjour: it changes the tone noticeably.

Caryatids of a green Wallace Fountain in Paris
Caryatids of a green Wallace Fountain in Paris. Photo: Julien Ricard from Paris, France, CC BY

Tap water in Paris is drinkable, free drinking fountains run in the streets, and some of them give sparkling water; bring a bottle. Pack comfortable shoes, because the cobblestones in the center are old and uneven. EU citizens do not need a visa, a passport or ID card is enough. Travelers from countries without visa-free entry need a Schengen visa, and it is worth applying a few weeks before the trip.

Check the roaming terms for France with your own carrier before you travel. An eSIM is a backup way to have internet from the first minute: for maps, tickets on your phone and contact with the hotel. Take out travel insurance before you leave and read exactly what it covers.

Build a packing list for the Paris trip

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Common questions about a trip to Paris